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Tag Archives: tulle

{easy as pie} Six Layer Tulle Skirt

28 May

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Today I would like to share with you this simple to make full length tulle skirt.  I can easily get one made in the span of one nap time (under two hours) which is a bonus!  These skirts are a great base for other costumes. They give an added pouf underneath princess or fairy dresses.  Or for little girls who just love to put on the glam they could just be worn on their own (with leggings or tights underneath)  As you can see, my daughter very much enjoyed walking around in this snazzy skirt.  This skirt was made in size 2, but the instructions are very adaptable to any size (just add more width and length to the fabric for larger sizes).  The supplies below are also for size 2.

supplies

1/4 yard satin fabric for the base

2 1/2 yards of tulle

19″ of 1/2″ elastic

safety pin

thread

basic sewing supplies

We are going to construct the top or base part of the skirt first.  Take your satin fabric and cut a rectangle that measures 10″ x 36″.   Fold this rectangle in half lengthwise with the right sides facing out.  The long raw edges should be at the bottom.  From the top folded edge of your fabric, measure down 1″ on one of the short sides.  Mark this with a pin.  Measure down 1″ more from this pin and mark this spot with a second pin.

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Unfold the fabric and this time fold it in half width wise, right sides together.  Your short edges should now be matched up, and the wrong sides of the fabric facing out.  Pin these two edges together.  You are going to sew them together with a 1/2″ seam BUT DO NOT sew in between the two pins that you put in during the previous step.  So you will: Start from one edge, sew until you get to the first marking pin, stop (remember to back stitch at the beginning and end) and then start sewing again after the second marking needle until you get to the other edge. (See picture below; sew along the dotted lines)

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Your skirt base should now be circular.  Fold it in half so that the right sides are facing out and the raw edges meet up.  There should be a little hole along the seam, make sure this hole is facing outwards; it should be 1″ from the top of your skirt base.  This hole is where you will insert the elastic later, so we need to make a casing for the elastic.  Starting at the top of the hole, sew all the way around the skirt base.  See the dotted lines in the following picture.

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Next we need to start at the bottom of the hole and sew all the way around to complete the casing.

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The skirt base is all done, see, I told you it was easy!  Now lets work on the tulle.  For my skirt I cut six long strips of tulle.  They measured 13″ x 60″, you can sew more than one piece together to get to the 60″ if you need to.  After you have cut/assembled all six of your strips, take one and fold it in half lengthwise, right sides together.  Sew the edges together with 1/2″ seam allowance.  Repeat this step with the five remaining strips.  Take three of your tulle skirt pieces and (keeping them turned inside out) put one inside of the other.  Line up the top edges of all three layers (this can be a little fussy!) and pin them together all around the top.  Sew a gathering stitch along the top pinned edge.  Make sure that the gathered edge is now the same width around as your skirt base.  If not, pull the threads to tighten or loosen it accordingly.pic5

Grab your skirt base.  Pin the gathered edge of your tulle skirt along the outer raw edge of your skirt base (the outer edge is the side that DOES NOT have the hole for the casing)  You are pinning these right sides together, so your tulle skirt should still be inside out, and your skirt base should be right side out.  Stitch them together with a 1/2″ seam allowance.  Sew with the tulle facing up.

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Gather the three remaining tulle skirt layers and put them one inside of the other; sew together with a gathering stitch just like you did before.  Open up the bottom of your skirt base and push the attached tulle backwards, away from the inner raw edge that has nothing attached to it.  Make sure the skirt base is still facing right side out.  This is kind of tricky to explain, hopefully this picture will demonstrate what you need to do.  You are going to pin the gathered edge of your second layer of tulle to this inner raw edge of the skirt base.  Again, right sides together: the skirt will be inside out.

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Are you with me?  Hopefully that all made sense…we are almost finished!  Sew the second layer of tulle to the skirt base, just like you did with the first layer.  Next flip your skirt so that it’s right side out.  Press your seams all the way around where the skirt base connects with the tulle.  While you are doing this, tug gently on the tulle so that the seam is pushed up inside of the skirt base.  Line up the two bottom edges of the skirt base, stitch all the way around the bottom edge to connect the two pieces together.  This part can get a bit tricky, just keep your tulle pulled downwards so that your seam stays up inside the skirt base and so that you don’t catch any of the tulle in your stitching.

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All you need to do now is insert your elastic (I used 19″, the width of my daughter’s waist)  Attach a safety pin to one end of the elastic and thread it through the casing.  Stitch the elastic together at the opening and then hand-stitch the opening shut. Voila!  A pretty skirt for dress up time! **My daughter is pretty tall, this skirt should come down to the ankles, any longer and it will just be tripped over.  The great thing about tulle is that it does not fray – you can trim your skirt to any length after it is finished.**

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Thank you for stopping by today, I hope you enjoyed this tutorial.  I would love to hear your comments on this post!

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Sweet Easter Mantle

24 Mar

Easter Mantle

We finally got around to making some Easter decorations!  Here is a picture of our decorated mantle.  Yes my Benjamin had to get in the picture.  When he gets that gleam in his eye there is no stopping him, he loves to be in pictures.  But who can really complain when he is completely adorable?

Anyways, we did make a few things which I wanted to share with you.  There are some eggs, some bunnies, and some Jesus = perfect Easter combination.

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Yarn Easter Eggs:  Ben and I had so much fun making these!  We found a great tutorial on one of my favorite blogs, Happy Hour Projects.  It was pretty messy, but Ben loved all of the glue and goop, plus we got to spend some quality time together while the little brother and sister were napping.  We used multi-colored yarn instead of one color per egg.  Mine were a little more uniform than Ben’s, I think they turned out quite well!

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Chevron Bunny: We made a little bunny decoration too.  I’m not sure exactly how I feel about him though, I think maybe the background was a bit too busy… First we mod-podged some grey tonal chevron fabric to a dollar store canvas.  Next we cut out the bunny shape from some medium grape chevron and glued it on with Mod Podge.  We added a pom pom to the tail for some texture and 3D effect.  Have I mentioned that my 3 year old, Sam, has a deep love for pom poms?  This was mostly for him.  Then I decided that bunny was too plain and added some ribbons and little triangles of rainbow cotton dots to make a little banner.  All of the fabric is from Riley Blake Designs.

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Free Printable Casting Crown Lyrics:  I made this printable and it is my favorite part of the mantle decorations!  You can print it, trim off the white border, and it fits inside of an 8×10 frame.

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Salt Dough Easter Egg & Bunny garland:  We actually made this last year.  We found the idea on Pinterest, the original recipe and tutorial is from Desperate Craftwives: Salt Dough Easter Egg Garland.  I decided to add some bunnies to ours as well, my children had a blast making this, they love painting projects.

And that is it for the decor!  I also wanted to show you this un-traditional Easter dress that I made for my sweet little niece.  I followed a pattern from Violette Field Threads – The Chloe Dress Pattern.  Have you ever heard of them?  They have gorgeous patterns!!!  There are several more that I want to make, but I can’t decide which one to make next!  Anyways, the dress I made had three layers of tulle.  I did a pink layer on top, a white layer in the middle, and a blue layer underneath.  I call it the cotton candy dress, I think she will love it!  It was really hard for me to get a great picture of it.  The dress looks much nicer when worn, but my niece lives far away and my husband has begged me not to put dresses on the boys anymore 😦

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I hope you have enjoyed this post, thanks for stopping by!

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This post has been linked up to the following parties:

PJH Designs



14 LOVE-ly Hair Accessories

21 Jan

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Valentine’s Day is nearing again!  Earlier last week I started looking around for some beautiful and romantic ideas to make some assorted Valentine’s hair accessories.  I ended up creating my own (which I will share with you as well) but I did come across some wonderful tutorials which I wanted to share with my readers.  Some are fun and funky, some are romantic – but they are all free and have great instructions (no links to Etsy shops or pictures only)  I hope you enjoy these “LOVE-ly” selections!  Here are the links below, in no particular order:

Crazy-In-Love-Bow1. Crazy-In-Love-Bow tutorial from The Ribbon Retreat.  This bow looks like so much fun!

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felt-heart-barettes-beaut-12. Valentine Heart Barrettes from the Purl Bee – these lovely little felt hearts are so precious!

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valentine heart clippie3. This Clippie Ribbon Tutorial from the Sugar Bug Boutique is very well explained and adorable!

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Rose-Barrette-dine4.  Beautiful little Rose Barrettes, also from the Purl Bee (I just love this Blog!)

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hair prettie 5.  Valentine Hair Pretties from the Anxious Crafter. This one would be gorgeous for little girls (or bigger girls like me!)

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6.  Here is another take on the sculpted heart – Valentines Heart Hair Clip Tutorial  from Double Stitching. Cute and simple!

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ruffle bun7. The Ruffle Hair Wrap tutorial from The Hopeful Threads could easily be made with some Valentine-themed fabric.  It’s versatile and can be used in many different ways!

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100lc_diyflowers18. These delicate cotton and tulle Fabric Flowers by Michonne  from the 100 Layer Cake look so elegant!

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pouf9  Another charming fabric flower! The French Pouf flower tutorial by Love Maegan is made with chiffon and tulle.

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My-Heart-Bow-210. The My Heart Bow tutorial from the Ribbon Retreat, wonderful and slightly over the top, a super bow for a little girl!

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satin and tulle11. This Satin and Tulle Flower Tutorial from Of Pinks and Fairytales is so classy!

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Zipper-Heart12.  How much fun is this?? The Zipper Heart, also from the Ribbon Retreat, they have so many wonderful tutorials!!

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yoyo113.  The Flower YoYo Headband – sparkly and pretty, I love this one from Morenas Corner.  Actually I am in the process of making one for my daughter with pink satin and heart acrylic gems to give it a Valentine theme.

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titleimage14. And last but not least, my very own creation the Cross My Heart Hair Clip tutorial…

I hope that you have found something that has inspired you to create!  Thank you for stopping by.

~Lisa K

~The Sweet Audrey {A Vingtage Inspired Ombre Dress} ~ Part 2 (The Skirt)

21 Dec

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Welcome to part 2 of the Sweet Audrey dress tutorial.  Today I will show you how I made the skirt.  My version includes a built in pettiskirt, but that part is optional.

Let’s get started with the outer part of the skirt.  For my skirt I cut two rectangular pieces from my main fabric (I used cotton ombre dots in grey)  Each piece was 35″ wide x 12 1/2″ long.  I found that this length was great because it gave me the full gathered skirt that I was looking for, but you could have it longer or shorter if you wish.  The length of these pieces were specific to my niece’s height.  I wanted the skirt to be hemmed just below her knees.  The bottom of your bodice should sit right on the hips, so to figure out what length you should cut your fabric, measure from the hip to just below the knee.  Take that number and add 1 1/2″.  This will give you the extra room to hem it at the bottom, as well as a seam allowance to attach the skirt to the bodice.

Take your two skirt pieces and place them right side up, one on top of the other.  If youskirtpic1 are using the ombre fabric, make sure that the darkest dots are at the bottom.  Fold your skirt pieces in half lengthwise, so that all four raw edges are together at the side.  Starting at the bottom, you are going to cut your fabric at an angle going backwards. To give you an idea on how much to cut, the length at the top of my skirt was 7″ shorter than the bottom.  This will create the a-line shape so that the dress will be nice and twirly. Measure the length of the top of your skirt, you will need this number to make the pettiskirt.   Next you are going to unfold your skirt pieces and place them right sides together.  Pin the sides of the skirt (the slanted sides that you just cut)  and sew them together with a 1/2″ seam.  Finish your seams with a zig-zag stitch.  Take the skirt to the ironing board and press your seams. Now we are going to hem the bottom of the skirt.  Fold up the bottom of the skirt 1/2″, press with your iron.  Fold it up another 1/2″ and press again.  Sew down your hem, all the way around the bottom of the skirt, to secure it into place. Again measure the finished skirt from top to bottom, you will need this number for the pettiskirt.   That part is finished, let’s move on to the pettiskirt portion!

I used two different colours of tulle (pink for tier 2, white for tier 1), but it was only because it would make it easier in the pictures to show you what I was doing.  You are going to need two strips of tulle.  The combined width of these two strips needs to be the same as your skirt length (or a bit longer if you want it to peak out the bottom) PLUS ADD 2″  I will use my skirt as an example.  You will remember that the fabric for my skirt was 12 1/2″ long.  After I hemmed the skirt it was 11 1/2″ long.  So, the combined width for my tulle strips needed to be 11 1/2″ plus 2″, then I added an extra 1/2″ so it would just peak out the bottom of the skirt, for a total of 14″.  Then I needed to divide that number in half to get the width of each strip (7″)  The first strip (let’s now call this tier 1)  needs to be the same length as the top of your skirt is all the way around plus one inch for the seam allowance.  Mine was 56″.  So my tier 1 tulle strip was 7″ wide X 57″ long.  I hope this makes sense, it’s really not too tricky, just read it over a couple of times…Tier 2 is easy.  It will also be 7″ wide and the length will be 5 times the length of tier 1.  My tier 2 strip was 7″ wide x 280″ long.  Yes, you will probably have to sew a couple of strips of tulle together to create tier 2, unless you have yards and yards of tulle lying around!

Take your tier 2 strip and sew a gathering stitch along one edge.  To do this I changeskirtpic2 my stitch length about as high as it will go (4) and crank up the tension on your sewing machine.  Once that strip is gathered, you need to make sure that it is now the same length as tier 1.  Pull your thread to gather it more if it’s needed.  Put tier 1 and tier 2 right sides together (if you have sewn several strips together to make tier 2, the right side of tier 2 is the one with no seams)  Pin and sew along the gathered edge of tier 2; use a 1/2″ seam.

skirtpic3 Now that your two tiers are joined togehter, fold your long strip of tulle in half lengthwise, make sure that right sides are together.  Join the edges of the skirt by sewing with a 1/2″ seam allowance.  See the dotted lines in the next picture for more clarification on where you should be sewing!

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The last step in creating your skirt is to attach the tulle pettiskirt to the outer skirt that skirtpic5you sewed previously.  Turn the pettiskirt and the outer skirt right side out.  Slip the pettiskirt inside of the outer skirt.  The two skirts should be the same width at the top. Pin the two skirts together at the top.  To join them together, all you are going to do is sew a gathering stitch along the top edge of the skirt.  When you have sewed your gathering stitch, grab your bodice and make sure that the top of the same skirt is now the same width as the bottom of the bodice.  If not pull the threads to gather it more, or loosen it accordingly.

Don’t forget to stop by tomorrow where we will be putting the finishing touches on this gorgeous dress!

I have to tell you, when I originally thought about making this dress I wanted to do a beautiful photo shoot with a model wearing the dress.  Wouldn’t it look elegant worn by a beautiful little girl, I can just see the long black gloves, mary jane shoes, hair in a bun, maybe even a little tiara and a pearl necklace (oh I love Breakfast at Tiffany’s!)  Alas, like every other project, I ran out of time!  I had to send the dress to my niece for Christmas, she lives far away.  I did, however, manage to snap a picture of my son who I bribed to try on the dress for me.  To preserve his dignity, I will crop out his head but I wanted to show you how the dress fits.  I do apologize, I was only able to get one picture before (of course!) he stubbed his toe and started to cry, so it may not be the quality that I would like but I will post it anyways.

What beautiful black socks!

What beautiful black socks!

Thank you for stopping by today, here is a link to Part 1 of this dress tutorial: The Bodice and Part 3: Finishing Touches

~Lisa K

~ The Sweet Audrey {A Vintage Inspired Ombre Dress} ~ Part 1 (The Bodice)

20 Dec

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For the past few months I have been dreaming up this exquisite girl’s party dress.  It is going to be a Christmas present for my niece ~ who just loves to twirl about in a pretty dress!  In my mind I saw something elegant, almost a vintage look. I wanted it to be sophisticated, like something Audrey Hepburn might wear, kind of like the one that she wore to the Oscars in 1954 (pictured below). alg-hepburn-dress-web I also wanted to find a way to make it fun and somewhat modern.

On the dress I designed, the skirt is very full and hemmed just below the knees.  I  added a built in pettiskirt for extra fun and flair. The bodice is lined and I have sewn it in a way that there are not many visible seams.  I am going to show you exactly how I created it, as well as give you a free pattern for the bodice in 5T.  I do plan to add more sizes, if there is a particular size you would like to make, leave a comment on this post and I will work on that size first.  For the fabric I chose a new cotton design from Riley Blake Designs.  Several months ago Riley Blake Designs came out with their cotton ombre dot collection.  I thought that an ombre dress would be lively and give it the modern twist that I was looking for.  So with that in mind, I chose ombre dots in grey.  I cut the fabric in a way that the dress starts out with light grey dots at the shoulders, and as you move towards the bottom of the dress the dots get darker and eventually at the bottom of the skirt they are black.  I broke up the dot pattern in the mid section with a splash of hot pink satin.  The dress is finished with four buttons down the back and a nice plump bow in the front.

Since it is a rather big project, I will be doing it in three parts.  The first part I will teach you how to sew the bodice.  The second part I will show you how to create the skirt.  The third part we will put everything together, plus add finishing touches like the bow and buttons. Well let’s get started!  Here are the supplies that you will need:

Supplies

Pattern ~ you will have to click on four separate links and print each one to get the complete pattern: The Sweet Audrey Dress Size 5T {Part 1:Back Bodice}, {Part 2 Back Rectangular}, {Part 3 Front Bodice}, {Part 4 Front Rectangular}~ this is for personal use only.  I have put a lot of work into this pattern and tutorial, if you would like to sell items made from this pattern please e-mail me at kraiger5@me.com and for a low cost I will give you a limited commercial license.

1 1/2 yards main fabric (my fabric is cotton ombre dots in grey)

1/2 yard lining fabric

1/2 yard satin fabric for the mid section and bow

2 yards of tulle ~ the finer, smoother tulle works best for this type of project (The built in pettiskirt is optional, if you are not putting it in the dress you do not need tulle)

Thread

Basic Sewing Supplies/Sewing Machine

4 buttons ~ mine were 15 mm or 5/8″

Cutting out your pattern:

You will need to cut out the lining pieces for your bodice first.  After you have cut out pic1the lining fabric, you will snip the bottom part of the pattern off along the dotted line.  Next cut your main fabric bodice pieces.  Lastly, use the front rectangular piece to cut out one satin pieces of fabric to attach pic2to your front bodice, and cut two from the back rectangular piece to attach to your back bodice.  From both the liner and the main fabric you will cut one front bodice piece, on the fold, and two opposite back bodice pieces.  Here are some pictures of the pieces you should now have.

pic3 First we are going to attach the satin pieces to the rest of the bodice.  To do this, flip your front rectangular satinpic4 piece so that one of the longer edges matches up with the bottom edge of your front bodice.  Make sure the pieces of fabric are right side together.  Sew them together with a 1/2″ seam.  Repeat this step with both of the back bodice pieces.  When you have sewed these pieces together, don’t forget to press your seams.

Next we need to sew the liner to the main fabric.  Place the front bodice liner and main fabric right sides together.  You are going to sew it together along the neckline, and then starting at the bottom of the arm hole you are going to sew pic5the liner and main fabric together, but stop half way up the arm hole!! Repeat with the other arm hole.

For the back part of the bodice we are going to sew it a little differently.  Again place the lining fabric right sides together with the main fabric.  You are going to sew arm holes halfway up, just like you did on the front bodice.  Then you are going to sew along the neckline and down the edge, but STOP sewing two inches from the bottom of the bodice.  Do this with both sides of the back bodice.  Again the dotted lines in the picture should help you figure out where to sew.

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Now let’s join the bodice together at the shoulders.  This next step looks a little tricky, it is hard to get a good picture of this step, but read it over a couple of times and the lightbulb should go on!  First of all you need to turn all of your bodice pieces right sidepic7 out and press with your iron.  I cannot stress this enough ~ take your time and do a good job pressing your bodice.  It will help you with the next couple of steps if you press it well.  Poke all of the little corners out; press.  Then you want to fold in the unsewn parts of your arm holes, 1/2″ towards the wrong side of the fabric (for both the main and lining fabric) and press well.

Take one of your back bodice pieces and place it on top of your front bodice piece, with the pic8outer fabric facing each other.  Line up the shoulders.

This is the tricky party.  Open up the shoulders.  Pin the outer fabric right sides together, and the lining fabric right sides together.  Sew the shoulders  together using a 1/2″ seam (along the dotted lines in the picture below)

pic9Repeat the same step with the other back bodice piece and sew the other shoulder together.  Your bodice is just about done, hopefully that wasn’t too painful!

Now you need to sew the sides of the bodice together and finish your arm holes.

To sew the bodice together, keep your bodice turned right side out.  Pull the outer fabric of the bodice upwards.  Pin the sides of the lining fabric together (so to be clear you are pinning the side of the front bodice to the side of the back bodice)  Pin it together all the way up to the arm hole where you will reach the outer fabric.  Then you will pin the outer fabric (right sides together) in the same fashion.  Sew all the way up the side with a 1/2″ seam allowance.  When you are finished press your seam.  The bodice should now look like a bodice!  And as a bonus you will not see any seams.

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This is where your excellent ironing skills will come in handy.  Fold your shoulder seam closed, if you have ironed the un-sewn arm hole well, you can jump right in and edge stitch all around the arm hole.  If the edges do not match up, take it back to the ironing board and press it a little more.  When you are ready, you can edge stitch all around both of the arm holes, and your bodice will be finished!

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Tomorrow I will post part two of this sew along.  Part two will show you how to make the skirt, which includes the outer skirt and the inner tulle pettiskirt.

Update:  Part 2 has now been posted, here is a link: Sweet Audrey Part 2: The Skirt and Part 3:  Sweet Audrey Part 3: The Finishing Touches

 I would also like to mention that this afternoon I am very happy to be co-hosting a special link party.  Several bloggers have teamed up and pledged to donate 5 cents per link added to the United Way Newtown Fund to benefit the victims of the Sandy Hook tragedy.  As of right now, we are up to $1.00 per link in pledged donations for every link added to the party.  The great thing for you is that no matter which blog you link up to, your addition will be seen on many different blogs ~ what great exposure for your blog, plus you will be helping out with a great cause!  There will be a few rules for this link party, but be sure to check out all of those details when I post them later today.

Thank you for stopping by!

~Lisa K

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