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Tag Archives: how to

{easy as pie} Six Layer Tulle Skirt

28 May

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Today I would like to share with you this simple to make full length tulle skirt.  I can easily get one made in the span of one nap time (under two hours) which is a bonus!  These skirts are a great base for other costumes. They give an added pouf underneath princess or fairy dresses.  Or for little girls who just love to put on the glam they could just be worn on their own (with leggings or tights underneath)  As you can see, my daughter very much enjoyed walking around in this snazzy skirt.  This skirt was made in size 2, but the instructions are very adaptable to any size (just add more width and length to the fabric for larger sizes).  The supplies below are also for size 2.

supplies

1/4 yard satin fabric for the base

2 1/2 yards of tulle

19″ of 1/2″ elastic

safety pin

thread

basic sewing supplies

We are going to construct the top or base part of the skirt first.  Take your satin fabric and cut a rectangle that measures 10″ x 36″.   Fold this rectangle in half lengthwise with the right sides facing out.  The long raw edges should be at the bottom.  From the top folded edge of your fabric, measure down 1″ on one of the short sides.  Mark this with a pin.  Measure down 1″ more from this pin and mark this spot with a second pin.

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Unfold the fabric and this time fold it in half width wise, right sides together.  Your short edges should now be matched up, and the wrong sides of the fabric facing out.  Pin these two edges together.  You are going to sew them together with a 1/2″ seam BUT DO NOT sew in between the two pins that you put in during the previous step.  So you will: Start from one edge, sew until you get to the first marking pin, stop (remember to back stitch at the beginning and end) and then start sewing again after the second marking needle until you get to the other edge. (See picture below; sew along the dotted lines)

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Your skirt base should now be circular.  Fold it in half so that the right sides are facing out and the raw edges meet up.  There should be a little hole along the seam, make sure this hole is facing outwards; it should be 1″ from the top of your skirt base.  This hole is where you will insert the elastic later, so we need to make a casing for the elastic.  Starting at the top of the hole, sew all the way around the skirt base.  See the dotted lines in the following picture.

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Next we need to start at the bottom of the hole and sew all the way around to complete the casing.

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The skirt base is all done, see, I told you it was easy!  Now lets work on the tulle.  For my skirt I cut six long strips of tulle.  They measured 13″ x 60″, you can sew more than one piece together to get to the 60″ if you need to.  After you have cut/assembled all six of your strips, take one and fold it in half lengthwise, right sides together.  Sew the edges together with 1/2″ seam allowance.  Repeat this step with the five remaining strips.  Take three of your tulle skirt pieces and (keeping them turned inside out) put one inside of the other.  Line up the top edges of all three layers (this can be a little fussy!) and pin them together all around the top.  Sew a gathering stitch along the top pinned edge.  Make sure that the gathered edge is now the same width around as your skirt base.  If not, pull the threads to tighten or loosen it accordingly.pic5

Grab your skirt base.  Pin the gathered edge of your tulle skirt along the outer raw edge of your skirt base (the outer edge is the side that DOES NOT have the hole for the casing)  You are pinning these right sides together, so your tulle skirt should still be inside out, and your skirt base should be right side out.  Stitch them together with a 1/2″ seam allowance.  Sew with the tulle facing up.

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Gather the three remaining tulle skirt layers and put them one inside of the other; sew together with a gathering stitch just like you did before.  Open up the bottom of your skirt base and push the attached tulle backwards, away from the inner raw edge that has nothing attached to it.  Make sure the skirt base is still facing right side out.  This is kind of tricky to explain, hopefully this picture will demonstrate what you need to do.  You are going to pin the gathered edge of your second layer of tulle to this inner raw edge of the skirt base.  Again, right sides together: the skirt will be inside out.

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Are you with me?  Hopefully that all made sense…we are almost finished!  Sew the second layer of tulle to the skirt base, just like you did with the first layer.  Next flip your skirt so that it’s right side out.  Press your seams all the way around where the skirt base connects with the tulle.  While you are doing this, tug gently on the tulle so that the seam is pushed up inside of the skirt base.  Line up the two bottom edges of the skirt base, stitch all the way around the bottom edge to connect the two pieces together.  This part can get a bit tricky, just keep your tulle pulled downwards so that your seam stays up inside the skirt base and so that you don’t catch any of the tulle in your stitching.

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All you need to do now is insert your elastic (I used 19″, the width of my daughter’s waist)  Attach a safety pin to one end of the elastic and thread it through the casing.  Stitch the elastic together at the opening and then hand-stitch the opening shut. Voila!  A pretty skirt for dress up time! **My daughter is pretty tall, this skirt should come down to the ankles, any longer and it will just be tripped over.  The great thing about tulle is that it does not fray – you can trim your skirt to any length after it is finished.**

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Thank you for stopping by today, I hope you enjoyed this tutorial.  I would love to hear your comments on this post!

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Resources for First Time Quilters ~ And An Easy Beginner Project!

16 Apr

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Do you want to learn how to quilt but have no idea where to start? I was in the same boat as you not so long ago. I am going to share with you how I began to quilt, and also an easy beginner project, a large list of resources that I have compiled, AND my favorite 10 Simple Quilting Projects for Beginners

titlequilting collage (scroll to the bottom of this post for the links to these projects)

About six months ago I looked into taking a quilting class. It was always something that I wanted to learn how to do. Piecing together beautiful fragments of fabric to create a lovely article, I think, would be therapeutic and very enjoyable. The class I found was going to cost $90, it may not seem like a lot of money. If you are a mom with three children you can probably relate; spending $90 on yourself hardly seems justifiable. Plus that was just the course – there are some expensive supplies associated with quilting too.

My husband piped up, “Well you have taught yourself to sew, can’t you just teach yourself to quilt too?” In my mind this seemed really complicated. There are probably a lot of great resources online, but to me, quilting looks like an exact science that cannot be messed with! If I wanted to learn how to quilt it did not look like I had much of a choice. I began to do some research.

I think everyone learns best via different methods. I find that I learn best when I have a lot of visual aids. My first stop was at the library where I checked out several books on the subject of quilting. After reading a few, I found one that really made sense to me. This book: The Singer New Machine Quilting Essentials was excellent! Tons of pictures, easy to read step by step instructions. Plus it was laid out very well. Once I had read the book it was easy to flip to whichever section I was looking for to get the information I needed. I have checked this book out a few times now and I would highly recommend it to any beginner.

Quilting Supplies

There are some essential supplies that you will need to get to begin quilting. They are:

  • Rotary Cutter
  • Rotary Cutting (Self Healing) Mat
  • A Ruler for rotary cutting
  • Sewing Machine (unless you plan on hand stitching your quilt)
  • Pins
  • An iron and ironing board
  • Quilting Fabric & Thread
  • Good scissors
  • And of course, sigh, a stitch ripper
  • Spray Adhesive – this is not essential but is something that has helped me immensely, I will mention it some more in a moment.

I went to my local quilting shop and had a look at the essential quilting supplies that I would need to buy. The rotary tools and rulers were very expensive! I then headed over to Michael’s Craft Store and noticed that they also carried the Olfa line of rotary cutters, rulers, and cutting mats. I whipped out one of their 40% off coupons on my I-Phone and bought my rotary cutter. The next day I printed out two more coupons and dragged my husband along. He bought the cutting mat and I grabbed a nice square ruler. There, I guess it doesn’t have to hurt the pocket book! If you are in Canada and a sewing club member at Fabricland, the Olfa products do go on sale, usually 50% off every few months.

Easy Beginner Baby Blanket

CelebrateSeussStripebyDr.SeussEnterprisesforRobertKaufmanADE10788203One of my first projects was a soft cuddle baby blanket. It wasn’t quite a traditional quilting project but it allowed me to practice some easy techniques. I had a yard of Celebrate Seuss Stripe fabric by Robert Kauffman and I loved the wavy red lines in the print. Here are the supplies that I used:

~1 yard of Celebrate Seuss Stripe Quilting Cotton: You can buy it for a GREAT price here: Fashionable Fabrics

~1 yard of Cuddle Minky

~ Red cotton thread

~Cotton batting: I got mine from Wal-Mart and it was labelled as “Cotton Batting Baby Blanket Size” and it turned out to be just a tiny bit more than I needed, which was actually perfect.

~Basic Sewing Supplies

First I cut the selvages off of the quilting cotton and made sure that the yard of cotton was just a bit smaller than the minky (about 1 1/2″ around) This is because I cheated and finished the blanket with a rolled hem. If you are going to attempt to bind your quilt the proper way you can leave the quilting cotton and the minky the same size. For this quilt I basted the fabric to the cotton batting using safety pins~ Now might be a great time to mention that while this blanket turned out just fine, I have since discovered that using a spray adhesive for basting my quilts is much easier than pinning it. (For more information on using a spray adhesive, click here: Spray Adhesive for Quilt Basting: How To) ~ Next I used my walking foot* and quilted along the top and bottom of each red wavy line with some red thread. Since this blanket was going to be a baby gift I backed it with a nice white stripe minky that I also had in my stash. I was not ready to try my hand at quilt binding just yet (yes I was very afraid of it!), so instead I used a rolled hem to finish this blanket. If you are not sure what this is, here is a TERRIFIC tutorial from the Crafting Chicks: Minky Baby Blanket Simplified

*Not sure which one is your walking foot? Have a look at this Sewing Machine Foot Introduction

Here is my finished project:

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Quilt Binding Resources

Speaking of binding a quilt: even though I had read the quilt binding section from the Singer New Machine Quilting Essentials book top to bottom, something still wasn’t clicking. I found a bunch of tutorials online, and now that I know what I am doing I can tell you that these tutorials are very well explained:

Old Red Barn Co: How to Bind a Quilt

Diary of A Quilter: Fast Machine Quilt Binding 101

Bee In My Bonnet: How to Bind a Quilt and Other Quilty Projects

Anyways, there was still a disconnect in my brain, until I found this: Quilt Binding- How to Make and Attach It, yes, I am a visual learner! Once I watched this entire video the steps were very clear. I guess I just needed to watch someone do each step.

Other Quilting Resources

I want to share some more online resources that were very helpful to me as a beginner. Take a look at some of these wonderful posts:

~Pressing Basics: This is a video tutorial that will teach you the basic methods of pressing, which is an important step while quilting

~Quilting Instructions: Quilting Tidbits – this post has tons of information about squaring up fabric, preparing fabric for quilting, how to sharpen your rotary blade and much more.

~Beginning Quilting Series from Diary of A Quilter – This series from Diary of A Quilter is amazing! There are lots of wonderful and helpful posts in this series

~What the Heck is a Jelly Roll? from Simplify – this is a really cute post that will explain terms like jelly roll, layer cake, charm packs, etc…

~Cutting Tutorial from Chasing Cottons – VERY useful information on how to cut your fabric properly, using your rotary cutter, ruler, and mat.

~The Secrets of Quilt Batting – Here is a nice post about quilt batting, what type to use for which project and more.

Quilty Pinners to Follow:

At this point I also started following some GREAT quilters on Pinterest. I discovered that their blogs contained beautiful quilt patterns and tutorials. Here are a bunch of my favorite pinners and a link to follow their boards: Riley Blake, The Cottage Mama, Shari Butler, Lori Holt, Tasha Noel Horsley, Happy Zombie, Michael Miller Fabrics, Robert Kaufman Fabrics.

Another thing that I am loving – Riley Blake has a fantastic quilting initiative going on right now. They started in January and each month they post a “Block of The Month“. You can click on each block to get the pattern, or they also have included some fantastic video tutorials for each block. Or maybe you want to go hang out with the experts themselves and take some classes – which you can do at the First Annual Riley Blake Fabric Fest this September in Las Vegas.

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10 Simple Quilting Projects For Beginners

Now I want to share some AWESOME beginner quilting projects with you! Some I have tried and loved, some I am yet to try but they are on my list! Please pin each one from the original source. Did I mention that these are all FREE tutorials and patterns??

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SONY DSC1. Superhero Quilt By Robert Kaufman Fabrics – Isn’t this a fabulous boy quilt? And easy too! Just click on the link and you will be able to download the free pattern. Needing some fabric for this project? Here are some great prices on the Superhero line of fabric: Superhero Fabric by Robert Kaufman

DSC062272. You Can Make a Quilt…I have proof by The Fickle Pickle – I love this tutorial because it follows a first time quilter as she makes a beautiful project step by step. It turned out beautifully, and it is proof that you can do it too!

8258348122_b5a1e9e50a3. The One With The Easiest Baby Quilt Ever by PS I Quilt – I followed this tutorial to create my second quilting project and she is right, it is very easy. In this tutorial she uses ten bold prints to create a sweet baby quilt. When I made it I had a very hard time deciding on coordinating fabrics so I only used five prints and repeated each one twice. It also turned out lovely!

100edit24. That Red Quilted Pillow from Little Miss Shabby – This beginner tutorial will have you creating a gorgeous decorative quilted pillow. It is very easy to follow and there are lots of great pictures. Plus you will also get to practice some hand stitching.

blogger-image-4685353105. Candy Hearts Table Runner Tutorial from A Farm Wife’s Journal – This adorable table runner would look sweet on any table! It has been on my must-try list forever, yes I need to get working on it! I also love the fabric she has used, Lori Holt’s Sew Cherry has also been on my fabric love list for a long time!

season4_episode7_96. Make Bright & Merry Home Decor from the Diy Dish – I know this is a Christmas tutorial and it’s only April, but you are going to want to pin this one for later. This video tutorial teaches you how to make a beautiful ornament block that can be used for a pillow, quilt, or a table runner. I bet you could make a beautiful tree skirt with it too.

IMG_7509_thumb17. Baby Bliss Quilt by Cluck Cluck Sew – This beautiful quilt was made using two charm packs. She basically just cut each square in half and sewed them together. Okay maybe there is a little more involved than that, but it would be a good beginner project nonetheless.

title photo8. Clermont Farms Quilted Tote Bake from Moda Bake Shop – I LOVE sewing cute little tote bags. Combining quilting with tote bags makes it extra fun! This project is definitely suitable for beginners and will teach you some great techniques that you can use when you are ready to tackle a much larger project.

8179134888_7d6312e942_c9. The Falling Flakes Stocking Tutorial by Imagine Gnats – Another Christmas project, I know, but hey- why not get started now and be extra prepared for the holiday :-). I think this sweet little stocking tutorial is a perfect beginner quilting project. It features a free printable PDF pattern, great pictures, and easy to read instructions. Plus if you can find some Christmas fabric to buy right now, I bet you will get a great deal on it. Or maybe you did buy some right after Christmas because it was on sale and you would like to use it up (this is my inner fabric hoarder speaking)

img_strips-sashing-kidslg_110. Strips and Sashing Kids Quilt by All People Quilt – A simple quilt that looks great when finished. You can download this project for free, but they do ask you to register for their website when doing so. That being said, the registration is also free and then you have access to tons of wonderful quilting projects and patterns.

Well that’s it! I hope you have enjoyed all of these resources, projects, and free tutorials! Thank you for stopping by today.

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How To Create A Sweet Applique Using Picmonkey

2 Apr

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Today I would like to show you how I use PicMonkey to create beautiful appliques for my personalized baby quilts and many other projects!  Why use PicMonkey?  If you are like me and live in the stone age with no fancy crafting tools like a Silhouette Cameo, this is a great option.  PicMonkey has a lot of simple shapes and great fonts and it’s easy to play around with the sizes and get your design exactly the way you want it.  Also I like this method because I can make sure that the letters are the perfect size to fit inside the design.  I’m sure there are many ways to create templates or designs for your applique, this is just how I like to do it!

What can you use this for?  There are so many things you could personalize, blankets, onesies, skirts, shirts, banners, bags or backpacks, framed art, I don’t know, take your pick!

Start by going to PicMonkey and click on “Edit A Photo”  Choose any photo, it doesn’t matter because we are going to put an overlay right on top of it.  Click on the overlay tab on the left side – it is the button that has the little shapes, fifth from the top.

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Click on the geometric overlay and select the rectangle, the first one.  Expand it to go over top of your picture and click on the white color to turn it into a blank canvas.

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Next, staying in the overlay section, click on the “labels” tab.  You can select whatever you like, the non-royale labels have the simplest lines which are best for applique designs.  Here is what I chose:

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Now you can add a word to your design, or whatever you like to your design.  Select the text button on the left side (the “P” button) As I mentioned, I use this particular applique design for a personalized baby quilt that I sell in my Etsy Shop.  Expand or turn your word to make it fit exactly the way you like in your design.  I would advise against using fonts that are too complicated (probably like the one that I have used) because they are more difficult to cut out.

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Save your design and print it.  When you print your applique template, you can usually select the size that you want it to print at that time.  Take some heat n bond and press it to the back side of a piece of fabric for your main (outer) shape.  Cut out your outer shape and pin it to the fabric and cut the shape out.

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Next cut your letters out of the design.  Again take the fabric that you are going to use for the letters and apply some heat n bond to the back of it.  When you apply the heat n bond first it makes it much easier to cut out your design, it’s more like cutting paper than fabric.  This let’s you get more detail and exact cuts.  Pin the letters to the fabric and cut out each one.  You will notice I cut the paper around the letters, then pinned it to the fabric and cut out the exact design.  This will give you more space to pin the letter to the fabric.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAPeel off the backing of the heat n bond and arrange the letters on your main design.  Press them in to place when they are exactly where you want them.  At this point you would stitch around the lettering with a tight zig-zag stitch.  I used a heat n bond ultra for my letters which doesn’t require stitching.  Next peel the backing off of your main applique piece and place it where you would like it to go on your quilt/shirt/onesie – whatever project you are decorating! Iron it in to place and use a tight zig zag stitch around the outer edge.

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I think it looks beautiful! What a great way to personalize your project.

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Here is a design that I am working on for another project, it is quite a bit more complicated.  I will let you know how it turns out!

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Thank you for stopping by, I hope you have enjoyed this little tutorial!

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The Sweet Jessie {ruffle party dress} free tutorial & size 2 pattern

28 Mar

Sweet Jessie Collage

Well this is it, the grand finale of my Disney fun month!  I hope you have enjoyed the Disney themed posts these past four weeks.  This may be the end of “Disney Fun Month” but I can promise you this is not the end of Disney related posts on Sweet Benanna & Sam (hint: I am already working on some awesome sewing projects that are Cinderella and Tiana related…)

For the grand finale I am bringing you “The Sweet Jessie” ruffle party dress.  I think Jessie gets the short end of the stick when it comes to girl Disney characters.  She’s not glamorous like a princess and I think because of this she isn’t as popular with the girls.  I (for one) think Jessie is a great character.  She’s strong and brave, and just a little stubborn.  She also has her romantic side too.  I like to think that if Jessie were invited to a princess ball that she might wear something like this ruffle party dress.  Fancy satin mixed with sparkly denim and cow print – so much fun!  In this tutorial you will find a free pattern to make a size 2 dress.  I hope you enjoy it – and if you don’t want to go with the Jessie theme, this dress is still beautiful with “normal” fabric { eg.  no cow print or denim}.

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Okay, enough with the cute pictures, let’s get to work!

supplies

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~Pattern: Please click on all three of these separate links and print each one:  Jessie Front Bodice (Size 2), Jessie Back Bodice (size 2), Jessie Sleeves& Collar

~1 yard white satin material

~1/2 yard cow print – you could use faux animal fur material, minky, or even a cotton cow print.

~1/2 yard denim – I found a nice sparkle denim in the bargain section of our local fabric store

~1/2 yard yellow/gold colored satin

~ 15″ of 1/4″ elastic

~3 buttons (I used some gold-looking buttons)

~ scraps of red sequins (optional)

~thread and basic sewing supplies/sewing machine & Fabri-tac (fabric glue)

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After you have printed your pattern, cut all pieces as indicated.  I used white satin fabric for all of the bodice pieces except for the collar, I used the yellow satin for that.

In addition to the bodice pieces you will need to cut the following:

For the skirt~  12″ long x 42″ wide (42″ was the length of my fabric) in white satin

For the sash~ 4 1/2″x 60″ in yellow/gold satin

For the ruffles~ 7″ x 60″ you will need five of these – two in denim, two in cow print, one in yellow/gold satin

pic1Let’s work on the collar first.  Take two of your opposite.  If you would like to dress them up with some red sequins, I put a line of fabric lengthwise about 1 inch from the bottom of the collar, following the curve of the collar.  Then I put my strip of sequins on top, waited until it dried and sewed it in place.  The sequins are optional though so it’s up to you!  Next take a piece of collar without sequins and pin it on top of one of your first collar pieces, right sides together.  You will sew around three sides – the short sides and the bottom with 1/4″ seam allowance.  Leaves the top open, clip any curves and turn it right side out.  Press it nice and flat with your iron; repeat with the second collar piece.

Next you are going to take one of your front bodice pieces (there should be four; two are for the lining)  Place one of your pic2collar pieces along the neckline.  One end of the collar should be about 1/2″ from the shoulder, and the other edge should be 1″ from the centre of your bodice. (The collar in my picture is a bit smaller than yours will be, I revised the pattern slightly after making the dress).  Take another one of your opposite front bodice pieces (the lining) and pin it on top, right sides together.  Your collar should be sandwiched in the middle.  Starting at the edge of the shoulder, sew down along your collar and the centre edge of the bodice with 1/2″ seam allowance. Repeat this step for the other side of your front bodice.

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Clip around any curves and turn your front bodice right side out.  Press nicely with your iron.  You should now have something like this:

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Are we ready to move on and attach the back of the bodice?  Good, let’s go.  Take one of your back bodice pieces and place it right side up.  Next lay your front bodice pieces on top, also right side facing up.  Make sure the arm holes and sides of the bodice are lined up with the back piece.  The centre pieces of the front bodice should over lap by about 3/4″, this will be where the buttons are added.  The collar edges should just be touching.

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Grab your second back bodice piece and pin it along the shoulders and the neckline of the other back bodice piece, right sides together.  Your front bodice should be sandwiched in between.  Sew along the shoulders and the neckline BE VERY CAREFUL not to sew in the edge of the collar.  Sew with 1/2″ seam, clip the curves, turn right side out and press.

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Time to work on the sleeves!  Take your two sleeve pieces to the iron.  Fold the long straight bottom edge over 1/4″ to the wrong side and press with your iron.  Next fold it over another 1/2″ and press again.

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pic8Sew a gathering stitch along the top of the sleeve, to do this set your machine at a high tension and the stitch length at 4.  Repeat with the second sleeve.  Take your bodice and open it; lay it flat with the front facing up.  Pin one of your sleeves along the armhole, right sides together.  Make sure that your gathered sleeve is the same length as the arm hole, if not adjust it by either pulling on the thread or loosening it slightly.  I like to start pinning by finding the centre of the sleeve and pinning that to the shoulder seam.

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Sew the sleeve to the bodice with a 1/2″ seam allowance.  Repeat these same steps to attach the other sleeve.

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This next step is probably the trickiest one.  I am going to use a picture from one of my previous tutorials because it illustrates it perfectly. Fold your bodice so that the front and back are facing each other and the lining is facing outwards.  Pin the bodice along the sides and pin the sleeves together along the bottom.  If you have done it correctly, the sleeves should be pinned right sides together, and wrong sides facing out.  Unfold the edge of the sleeve that you had previously ironed over.  Sew all the way up the side and up the sleeve with 1/2″ seam allowance.  Finish your seam with a zig-zag stitch to prevent fraying.

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Hopefully that wasn’t too confusing!  Repeat this step on the other side.  Now you are going to the “hem” on your sleeves.  Fold your sleeve back the way it was, sew around the top edge of the folded part to create a casing for your elastic.  Leave about 1″ open at the bottom of the sleeve to thread your elastic through.  Cut your 1/4″ elastic to 7 1/2″ long.  Thread it through the casing.  Sew the hole shut and repeat steps for the second sleeve.

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The last step to complete your bodice is to add the button holes and buttons to the front.  I used three buttons, it is up to you how many and what size buttons you would like to use.

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Let’s get that skirt put together, shall we?

Fold your skirt piece (12″x42″) in half width-wise, right sides together.  Sew down the long edge with 1/2″ seam, finish the seam with a zig-zag stitch.  Now we need to hem the skirt.  Fold up the bottom edge 1/4″ to the wrong side and press, fold again another 1/4″ and press again.  Sew down your hem.  We now need to mark on the skirt where the ruffle strips are going to go.  The first strip will be at the top of the skirt so you don’t need to measure that.  Measure 2 1/4″ down from the top of the skirt and make a mark with a pencil.  Make several marks around the skirt, all measuring 2 1/4″ from the top.  Next move down another 2 1/4″ from those marks and repeat, making marks around the skirt at this measurement.  Repeat this step two more times – you should have 4 sets of pencil markings 2 1/4″ apart.

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pic12Prepare your ruffle strips – you may have had to sew more than one piece of fabric to get your 60″ in length, that is fine.  Fold your ruffle strip in half so that the short ends are right side together.  Sew the ends together with 1/2″  seam.  Don’t worry about finishing these ends with a zig-zag stitch since they won’t be visible.  Now you have a large circle.  Fold up the bottom half of the circle so that the two raw edges are aligned and the right sides are facing out. Press your ruffle in half with your iron.   Sew the top raw edges of the ruffle together with a zig-zag stitch to prevent fraying.  Do this with all five of your ruffle strips.  Lastly you need to sew a gathering stitch around the top of your ruffle.  Sew it just below the zig-zag stitch.  With the heavier fabrics like the denim or cow print you will either need to be very careful when pulling the thread to gather it (it may break), or maybe use a heavier thread like an upholstery thread.

Let’s get those ruffles attached to the skirt.  So there are five ruffles, starting from the top of the skirt here is how I organized it: Ruffle 1: Denim, Ruffle 2: Cow, Ruffle 3: Yellow/Gold, Ruffle 4: Denim, Ruffle 5: Cow.

We are going to start at the bottom of the skirt with Ruffle 5: Cow.  Take one of your cow ruffles and make sure it is gathered to the same width as the skirt.  Line up the top edge of the ruffle with the bottom markings on your skirt and pin it all the way around.  Sew it into place along the top edge – that’s it, super easy!  Repeat this step with Ruffle 4: Denim, placing the top edge along the markings above Ruffle 5.  The bottom edge of  ruffle should cover the top edge of ruffle 5 so that you don’t see the stitching.  Repeat this step until all 5 layers are sewn into place.  Ruffle 1 will be sewn onto the top edge of the skirt.  See picture below.

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Sew a gathering stitch along the top edge of the skirt.  Now it is time to sew the skirt to the bodice.  Turn your skirt inside out.  Make sure that your bodice is right side out and that the buttons are done up.  Pin the top edge of the skirt to the bottom edge of the bodice, right sides together.  Make sure that your skirt is gathered to the same size as your bodice.  Also it looks much better if the seam of your skirt is at the back, centre, of the bodice.  Sew the skirt to the bodice with 1/2″ seam allowance.  Be careful to catch all the layers of the fabric; especially the denim so that none of the raw edges will show when you turn your dress right side out.  Almost done!  We just need to create the sash.  I apparently forgot to take pictures of this step but it’s very easy!

Take your piece of yellow satin fabric that is 4 1/2″ x 60″ (if you have had to sew more than one piece of fabric together to get this length, that is fine BUT make sure that your seam is not near the centre of the sash or else it will be visible).  With right sides together, sew the long edges of your sash with 1/4″ seam.  Turn right side out and press it flat with your iron.  Tuck the short open edges inside the sash and then sew it shut by top stitching along the edge.  Hand stitch the sash to the dress at each of the side seams of the bodice.  And that’s about it!  I did add some red sequins to the front of the sash as well, I’m not sure if I was happy with them but I will leave that up to you!

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  Now your sweet Jessie is ready to party!  I hope you have enjoyed this sewing tutorial, I would love to see your own Sweet Jessie creations!  Thank you for stopping by.

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~The Sweet Audrey {A Vingtage Inspired Ombre Dress} ~ Part 3 (Finishing Touches)

24 Dec

 

 

titleimage     Part 3 is here, let’s put the finishing touches on the Sweet Audrey Dress!  Today we will sew the skirt to the bodice, add the buttons, and make the bow and attach it to the front of the dress.

First of all, we need to prep the bodice.  Take it to the ironing board and unfold it, lay itpart3pic1 flat.  You are going to fold the bottom of the liner over 1/2″ to the inside of the bodice and press it.  Next fold the bodice back up.  You need to pin the button plackets together in the back.  To make sure that it is lined up properly, make sure that the side seams are at the sides of the dress.  The arm holes should also look part3pic2like they are lined up too.  Put a few pins down the back of the button placket to make sure that the bodice doesn’t shift around while you are attaching the skirt.  Your button placket SHOULD overlap at the back.

We are now going to attempt to attach the skirt to the bodice.  This is the part that I like best, when it is sewn together you can really see how beautiful your dress is going to be!

Keep your bodice turned right side out.  Turn your skirt inside out.  You are going to pin the skirt to the outer part of your bodice, right sides together.  The easiest way to describe this is that you are going to sit your skirt (inside out!) on top of the counter/cutting table, whatever you are using for your workspace.  Now, with your bodice right side out, turn it upside down and place it inside of your skirt.  line up the sides of the bodice with the sides of your skirt.  If you followed along with part 2, your skirt should be the same width around as the bottom of your bodice.  Pin it together all the way around, you will pin the top edge of the skirt to the bottom edge of the OUTER part of your bodice (the satin part)part3pic3

Sew all the way around the edge using 1/2″ seam.  Make sure that you are sewing just underneath the gathering stitch that you used to sew the two skirts together.  If you do not sew below it, you will see the gathering stitch from the outside when the dress is done.  Make sure that when you are sewing over the back of the bodice that the button placket IS overlapping at the back.  Also be careful not to catch the liner when you are sewing.  Since we ironed it under before this step, it should be easy to ensure that this doesn’t happen.

Next take your dress to the ironing board.  part3pic4Press your seam up so that it will go inside the bodice.  Press the rest of your bodice nicely, make sure the liner looks nice and press it so that it covers the seam.  This part3pic5will enclose the seam inside of the dress.  When you are finished, top stitch along the bottom edge of the liner, all the way around.  When you get to the button placket, again top stitch right over it, it may take a bit of tricky maneuvering but it’s not too difficult.  The liner should now be stitched into place.  Make sure that your thread is the same colour as the satin, as this stitch will be visible from the outside of the dress.  After you have stitched the liner down, open up your button placket.  You will notice that the inner part of the liner did not get stitched into place.  You will need to hand stitch this part, I used a whipstitch to do this.

Now it’s time to add your buttons.  I used 4 5/8″ buttons for my dress.  Your button holes will be added to the part of the bodice that overlaps (is on top) of the other button fabric.  Your buttons will be sewn to the side that is underneath the other one.

Last but not least, let’s create a gorgeous bow for the front of the dress!  You will need to cut three pieces of fabric from your satin.  You will need two rectangles that are TWICE as long as you want the finished bow to be, and the width will be whatever you would like the finished bow to be PLUS 1/2″.  My two rectangles were 16″ x 4 1/2″.  Then you need a third rectangle for the centre piece of your bow.  Mine measured 4 1/2″ x 5 1/2″.  I am going to do most of the next step in pictures.  All of the seams for the bow have been sewn with 1/4″ seam allowance.

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Pin the two rectangular pieces for the main part of your bow right sides together. Sew around three sides leaving one short end open.

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Turn right side out, fold in the unsewn edge 1/2″ and press.

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Take your third rectangular piece for the centre of the bow. Fold over short ends 1/2″ to the wrong side and press

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(make sure that your seam is on the inside so that it won’t be visible)

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Now that the centre piece is finished, let’s move back to the main part of the bow. Grab a needle and thread, run a long gathering stitch down the centre. Make sure that the top edge and the bottom edge of the bow are gathered facing the same direction; towards you. The seam should be at the back of the bow.

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This dress is finished! Beautiful, elegant, fun ~ fit for a princess!  Here are the links to PART 1 and PART 2 in case you missed it.

Thank you for following along with this sewing tutorial, I would love to see any finished dresses that you have made!

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Thank you for stopping by!

~Lisa K

Day 12 ~ Good Mom Sign

26 Nov
Today I have another wonderful guest blogger ~ Barbara from Chase the Star.  She brings us a beautiful DIY wood sign.  This would be a great gift for any mom, I know I would like to have one!
Our Ad sponsor today is Wholesale Flowers Ribbons & Buttons, they have lots of great stuff for your crafting needs, and they will be participating in our giveaway on November 30th!
Welcome to Wholesale Flowers Ribbons & Buttons. We specialize in all things crafty and love to hear from our customers for items you would like us to carry.  We are currently shipping 5 days per week. We will do our very best to get your order out within 24 hours.  We offer wholesale prices to everyone!  Please visit us on Etsy here: Wholesale Flowers
Or on Facebook here: Wholesale Flowers Facebook
 
Hello Sweet Benanna & Sam readers! 
 
My name is Barbara and I blog over at Chase the Star!  I’m thrilled to be a guest here today, so grateful to Lisa for the invite!  
 
Chase the Star is all about crafting, furniture restoration, recipes, and more.  I try my best to share inexpensive and easy to make projects and DIY updates!
 
Today, I’m sharing one of my DIY signs with you..
 
A couple of weeks after moving in to my house, while clearing the garage out I came across this 28×11 piece of plywood.  This was a ‘goodie’ because as a crafter I could always use scrap wood, it saved me a couple bucks, and a trip to the HD.  Win, win, WIN!
 
   
 I immediately thought about this awesome sign I had pinned for ‘later’:
Source
So  using it as my inspiration piece, I decided to attempt my own version!  I used what I had on hand, which I do quite a bit 🙂 
 
I got started painting the plywood with black chalkboard paint.  Yes, chalkboard paint because it dries fast, and usually doesn’t require primer.  And I have no patience.
 
The only stencils I had in my stash were 2″ thick block letters, so I had to scale back the wording a bit.  I got rid of the ‘laundry piles’ piece because honestly I didn’t want anything around to remind me I need to catch up on laundry!  O.k., also it wasn’t kitchen related and that’s where this sign was to live.
 
Of course this was my pre-blog days so I didn’t take pictures of the process.  Go ahead and yell at me!
 
Once the paint was dry I created the wording with the stencils and taped them on to the board with painter’s tape.  Using a foam brush, I dabbed white paint on the stencils.  I had to go back and add a couple more coats of the white since I was going over black.
 
Once it was all completely dry (overnight), I went crazy with the sandpaper from top to bottom.  I really wanted it to look like a piece that’s had a really hard life.  
 
I added a saw tooth hanger on the back, by simply nailing it into place with the teeny nails they come with. 
 
Messy isn’t it?  The backs of most of my projects look like that or worse.  Who cares?  It’s against the wall (wink)! 
 
To give it an aged look and to seal it, I added a coat of wood stain with a sealer built in.  
 
People always have a chuckle when they read this in my kitchen!  
 
Have you put your own twist on something you’ve seen in the blogosphere?  
 
Thanks again to Lisa for having me here today! 
 
I’d love to see you guys over at my place!  
 

Please stop by and say ‘hello’, and find me here too:                      


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Day 7~ Upcycled Festive Turtleneck

21 Nov

Onto day 7 ~ almost halfway through this series.  I really hope you are finding some great Christmas gift ideas!  Today I wanted to show you something really easy to make for little girls, and there is also an easy boy project at the end (because there are never enough of those!).

Today’s ad sponsor is My Childhood Treasures.  They sell some beautiful children’s pdf sewing patterns.  If you have had a good look around my blog, you may have seen my “Sweet Little Red” post.  Sweet Little Red’s hooded cape was made using “The Maisie” pattern from My Childhood Treasures ~ so I can tell you from experience that her patterns arrive quickly, are easy to follow, and look beautiful when finished (My Childhood Treasures is also going to be participating in our Giveaway on November 30th!!) Click on the banner below to visit My Childhood Treasures on Etsy!

Every year I scour the department stores to try and find coordinating outfits so that my children will match in our Christmas pictures.  I am not sure why I didn’t think of this idea before now.  This year I got them plain white turtlenecks, and I am using matching fabric to make them fancier and add some accessories.  So much easier ~ and very inexpensive!  I also thought that this idea would make a great little gift for a girl.  You can make the turtleneck into a ruffly shirt, or a double layer dress.  I will show you how to do both of those, plus I have a really easy no-sew applique Christmas onesie idea for boys at the end of this post.

Supplies

Plain turtleneck – you can pick these up cheap at Wal-Mart or the one I got was from Superstore (I liked that the sleeves were a little puffy, gives it a girly touch!)

Scrap fabric for applique

One fat quarter of Christmas-y fabric

Stitch Witchery (double sided fusible interfacing) or heat n bond.

Fun embellishments (I had some green sparkly elasticized sequins, and somesilver ribbon elastic ribbon)

Sewing machine and basic sewing supplies

First we are going to start with the Christmas ornament applique.  I traced around the bottom of a large coffee mug onto a piece of paper to make sure I had a nice round shape.  Then I pinned the circle to some nice red satin fabric and cut out the circle.  I also cut out the same size circle from my double sided fusible interfacing (or heat n bond).  I also cut out a little trapezoid shaped piece out of grey chevron fabric for the top of the ornament, and again I cut out the same size piece from my fusible interfacing.

Next I decorated my piece of red satin, I used some fabri-tac to adhere my green sequins.  I then stitched them down.  You could really decorate your ornament however you like, ric-rac, beads, anything nice and sparkly!  Next I cut a piece of the silver elastic, about 4 inches long.  I folded it in half and glued it to the back of the fabric piece that was going to be used for the top of the ornament.

Then take both of these ornament pieces and your turtleneck to the ironing board.  First you are going to fuse the round ornament piece to your shirt.  Use either your round fusible interfacing or your heat n bond to do this.  Decide where to place your ornament before fusing, it’s kind of hard to change your mind later!!  Next position the top piece of your ornament where you would like it to go and fuse that into place.  Now that you have your ornament in place, you need to go back to your sewing machine.  Use a tight zig-zag stitch to stitch around the ornament, make sure you go all the way around your circle, and around all four sides of the top ornament piece.

Doesn’t it look so pretty and festive?

The only thing left to do is add a ruffle at the bottom.  Measure the bottom of your shirt, cut a strip of fabric that is 2 1/2″ wide and 4 times the width of your shirt.  My fabric was 42″ long, so I just used the width of the fabric, but if you are using a fat quarter you may have to sew two strips together.

Sew a zig-zag stitch down both of the long sides of your fabric strip.  Next, fold the strip in half lengthwise, with right sides together.  Sew the ends of the strip together with a 1/2″ seam allowance; zig-zag stitch down the edge of your seam.

 Now take this strip to the ironing board and press your seam flat.  Fold over one of your zig-zagged edges 1/2″ to the wrong side and press with your iron.

 You are now going to sew that folded edge into place. Sew all the way around the strip to secure the folded edge down.  Now you need to sew a gathering stitch around the other edge ~ the edge that ONLY has the zig-zag stitch, not the side that you just folded over!  Sew your gathering stitch and make sure that the width is now the same as the width of the bottom of your turtlenec.   Take your piece of fabric and pin the gathered edge to the turtle neck.  You are going to pin it 1/2″ from the bottom of the turtleneck, right sides together.   Sew it into place, I like to stitch it just below the gathering stitch.  Trim all of your threads and press your ruffle down with your iron, and it is done!

I want to also show you the dress version that I did for my daughter.  I used two coordinating Christmas fabrics.  Instead of making the ruffle strip 2 1/2″ wide, I made two strips that were both 8″ wide (you would just need to measure how long you want the dress to be and adjust your width accordingly).  The first fabric strip I sewed it 1 1/2″ from the bottom of the turtleneck, and the second fabric strip was sewn 1/2″ from the bottom ~ instant two-tiered turtleneck dress!

Man it’s hard to catch good pictures of this girl!!

The last idea is super simple, does not even require a sewing machine!  Get some scrap fabric, heat n bond ULTRA, a Christmas cookie cutter, a marker, and a onesie.

Iron your scrap fabric onto a piece of Heat N Bond ULTRA.  Flip your fabric piece over, place the cookie cutter onto the heat n bond side and trace around the outside with your marker.  Cut out your design and then peel off your applique backing.  Press it to the onesie with your iron – if you use heat n bond ultra, you do not have to sew it to the onesie!

That’s it! What a cute baby gift!  Here are all three, I hope you have enjoyed this post!

Thank you again!

~Lisa K

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