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Tag Archives: children

Dress Up Time D.I.Y ~ Cinderella Peasant Dress

21 May

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Today I am going to share this simple Cinderella Peasant Dress costume {size 2T} with you.  I think little chores are much more fun when you are dressed like Cinderella!  Peasant dresses are very easy sewing projects, in fact I think that one of my very first sewing projects was a peasant dress.  When I first learned how to make one, I followed a great tutorial from Pretty Prudent.  This Cinderella dress is just a slight variation from this peasant dress.  Since most of the steps are the same, except for the skirt, I don’t want to re-write someone else’s tutorial.  Instead I will have you read their tutorial and tell you what I did differently.

Here are the supplies that you will need, for the dress only.  I will tell you about the apron after the dress is out of the way!

supplies

~Fabric: You will need three different colors, but it’s all plain cotton.  I found mine in the bargain bin, it does not have to be expensive!  Sleeves: Light/Sky Blue 1/4 yard, Bodice: Dark/Chocolate Brown 1/4 yard, Skirt: Light/Coffee Brown 1/2 yard.

~35″ of 1/4″ elastic.

~Thread and basic sewing supplies

Below are the measurements for the dress.  You will cut two of the bodice pieces on the fold.  Cut along the red lines to create an armhole (a basic J shape, 6″ down) and a sloping neckline.

You will also need to cut two of the skirt pieces, and two of the sleeves (on the fold).

Size 2T

Cinderella Peasant Measurements

Cut out all of your pattern pieces above.  You are going to make the bodice by following the instructions here: Long Sleeve Peasant Dress Tutorial.  Start from Step 2: Cut Out Neckline and Armhole.  To be clear, while you are following the peasant dress tutorial, you will be using the two bodice pieces and the two sleeve pieces to create the bodice.  You will not be doing anything with the skirt until you come back to this page.

DO NOT:  Hem the bottom of the dress (bodice) or insert elastic into the sleeves.

Creating The Skirt

You should now have your bodice made, with the finished sleeves attached.  The bodice should have a raw edge along the bottom.  Are we on the same step? Good, let’s create the skirt and finish the dress.  Take your two rectangular skirt pieces and sew them right sides together down both of the shorter sides with 1/2″ seam allowance.  Use a zig-zag stitch to finish the seam.  Press your seams flat.  Fold the bottom of your skirt over 1/4″ to the wrong side and press with your iron.  Fold it over again and press; hem the bottom of your skirt.  Sew a gathering stitch around the top of your skirt and make sure it is the same width around as the bottom of your bodice.

Attach Skirt to the Bodice

Pin the top of the skirt to the bottom of the bodice, right sides together.  The easiest way is to have your bodice turned right side out, and your skirt inside out.  Place your bodice upside down into the top of the skirt and pin around the top.  It is a good idea to tuck the sleeves out of the way so that they don’t get in the way of your sewing.  Sew the bodice and skirt together using a 3/4″ seam allowance.  Use a zig-zag stitch to finish off the edge of the seam.

Press the seam upwards (towards the bodice) with your iron.  Now you are going to stitch along the top of the seam, all the way around, to create an elastic casing (make sure you are using thread that matches the chocolate brown bodice).  Leave 2″ open so that you can insert your elastic.  Take 20″ of 1/4″ elastic and attach it to a safety pin.  Thread it through the casing.  Sew the ends of the elastic together and then sew the opening shut.

And that’s all!  I left the elastic out of the sleeves because I noticed that Cinderella’s sleeves are loose, but of course you could make yours any way you wish.

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I also made an apron with an applique to go along with the dress.  It was very time consuming, and it was my first attempt at creating something like this, but here is a quick look at how I did it.

First I found a clip-art picture online of one of the bird characters from Cinderella, here is what my applique was supposed to look like:

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I have to say that my little bird didn’t turn out quite so happy looking, rather a little worried looking!

Supplies used: various scraps of fabric, heat n bond, black thread, basic sewing supplies.

I printed the bird and cut it out around the outer edges.  I pinned it to some blue fabric that already had some heat n bond applied to the back of it.  I cut the bird shape out of the blue fabric (leave the back of the heat n  bond on, do not peel it off yet)

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Next I cut out pieces of the bird that were not blue (ie the hat, vest, beak, etc…) and pinned them to coordinating colors of fabric – these pieces of fabric also had heat n bond applied to the back.  I cut out each little piece of the bird and applied them to my blue main bird piece, like a puzzle.  Peeling off the back of the heat n bond I pressed each piece into place with my iron.  Here is the little bird coming together: pic5 pic6

After all of the pieces were in place I peeled off the backing on my main (blue) bird piece and positioned it where I wanted on the apron skirt.  Then, using black thread, I stitched all of the features and outlines onto the bird.  I used a zig-zag stitch, setting the length at almost zero.  The width of the stitch varied, as you can see that some of the lines on the bird are thicker than others – for example the black parts of the eyes are also done using a wide zig-zag stitch.

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apronIt can be pretty tricky to get the facial details just right, as I mentioned before, my bird seems to look a bit worried and the original picture the bird looked happy!  As for the Cinder-Calleigh lettering, I don’t have a fancy embroidery sewing machine so this is just done freehand, again with a zig-zag stitch on a very short stitch length setting.

Thanks for stopping by today, I hope you have enjoyed this post!

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Preschool Learning – Letter T Free Printable Worksheet

8 May

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If you missed it last week – Wednesday is now Letter Worksheet day on Sweet Benanna & Sam.    This week we are working on the letter T.  Click on the picture AT THE BOTTOM of this post to be directed to the free printable.  You can also find links to previous worksheets at the bottom of this post.

Here is how we use our worksheet: First we talk about the letter, which one it is, what it sounds like, whether it’s a vowel or a consonant.  There are four pictures at the bottom, but only three of them start with the proper letter.  He has to figure out which one does not start with the correct letter, and then he crosses it off.  He colors the remaining three pictures (coloring practice) and then cuts them out (cutting practice).  Next he glues the pictures into each of the three boxes provided.  Then he likes to color the letter as well.  Next he practices writing the letter in the space at the top of the page.  The space provided at the top for writing helps to give him an idea of how big to print the letter – Preschoolers typically print in GIANT size.   He usually likes to print his name too.  So there are several different learning applications involved in this worksheet.

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Here are the links to the other letters that we have been working on:

Letter R Worksheet

Letter V Worksheet

Thank you for stopping by today, I hope you have enjoyed this post!

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Rainy Day Fun: The Lion, The Witch, and the Cardboard Wardrobe

3 Apr

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Last Christmas I took my four year old son to a high school production of Lion, The Witch, and the Wardrobe.  I wasn’t sure just how much he would get from it, or even if he would enjoy it, but he has been Narnia-obsessed ever since!  I am currently reading the novel to him, and even though there are no pictures, he loves it.  I am also really thankful that it is giving me the opportunity to reinforce some important biblical truths, C.S Lewis was genius to include so many parallels.

Recently we moved and we had so many great boxes left over.  One particularly blustery cold day a few weeks ago we decided to have some fun with our boxes, and created this magical cardboard wardrobe.  It turned out wonderfully, it was a great combination of a fun art/craft project followed by a lot of creative play time.  Here is a re-cap of our box wardrobe day.

We started with one of those large wardrobe boxes, the kind that have a metal bar along the top for hanging clothes.  We cut the back of the box on each side down to the bottom to create a large flap.  Then at the front we cut down the centre and across at the bottom and top to create the doors.

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box2Next I gave the kids some brown (water soluble!) paint and brushes and got them to work on the doors and the sides of the wardrobe.  While they were doing this I QUICKLY painted a Narnia-like scene on the inside of the back flap.  (QUICKLY because I have a crawler and although she was interested in something else at that point, I did not want her crawling in wet paint)

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I added some yellow “accents” to the front of the box to make it look a little more like a wardrobe.  After the paint was dry I hung some coats along the bar and then folded up the back flap and tucked the top end back into the box so that it was standing straight up.  The idea was that the children would climb into the wardrobe and then push the back flap open to step into Narnia.

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It worked!  We had a great morning role playing The Lion, The Witch, and the Wardrobe.  My four year old was Peter (with the armor)  My three year old son was Edmund, My 17 month old daughter was the Lion (whether she knew it or not!)  and unfortunately I got to be the witch.  We also had our play castle tent in Narnia, which kind of reminded me of the make shift tents on the Narnia battle field.  Lots of fun!

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I hope you enjoyed this post, thanks for stopping by!

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The Sweet Jessie {ruffle party dress} free tutorial & size 2 pattern

28 Mar

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Well this is it, the grand finale of my Disney fun month!  I hope you have enjoyed the Disney themed posts these past four weeks.  This may be the end of “Disney Fun Month” but I can promise you this is not the end of Disney related posts on Sweet Benanna & Sam (hint: I am already working on some awesome sewing projects that are Cinderella and Tiana related…)

For the grand finale I am bringing you “The Sweet Jessie” ruffle party dress.  I think Jessie gets the short end of the stick when it comes to girl Disney characters.  She’s not glamorous like a princess and I think because of this she isn’t as popular with the girls.  I (for one) think Jessie is a great character.  She’s strong and brave, and just a little stubborn.  She also has her romantic side too.  I like to think that if Jessie were invited to a princess ball that she might wear something like this ruffle party dress.  Fancy satin mixed with sparkly denim and cow print – so much fun!  In this tutorial you will find a free pattern to make a size 2 dress.  I hope you enjoy it – and if you don’t want to go with the Jessie theme, this dress is still beautiful with “normal” fabric { eg.  no cow print or denim}.

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Okay, enough with the cute pictures, let’s get to work!

supplies

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~Pattern: Please click on all three of these separate links and print each one:  Jessie Front Bodice (Size 2), Jessie Back Bodice (size 2), Jessie Sleeves& Collar

~1 yard white satin material

~1/2 yard cow print – you could use faux animal fur material, minky, or even a cotton cow print.

~1/2 yard denim – I found a nice sparkle denim in the bargain section of our local fabric store

~1/2 yard yellow/gold colored satin

~ 15″ of 1/4″ elastic

~3 buttons (I used some gold-looking buttons)

~ scraps of red sequins (optional)

~thread and basic sewing supplies/sewing machine & Fabri-tac (fabric glue)

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After you have printed your pattern, cut all pieces as indicated.  I used white satin fabric for all of the bodice pieces except for the collar, I used the yellow satin for that.

In addition to the bodice pieces you will need to cut the following:

For the skirt~  12″ long x 42″ wide (42″ was the length of my fabric) in white satin

For the sash~ 4 1/2″x 60″ in yellow/gold satin

For the ruffles~ 7″ x 60″ you will need five of these – two in denim, two in cow print, one in yellow/gold satin

pic1Let’s work on the collar first.  Take two of your opposite.  If you would like to dress them up with some red sequins, I put a line of fabric lengthwise about 1 inch from the bottom of the collar, following the curve of the collar.  Then I put my strip of sequins on top, waited until it dried and sewed it in place.  The sequins are optional though so it’s up to you!  Next take a piece of collar without sequins and pin it on top of one of your first collar pieces, right sides together.  You will sew around three sides – the short sides and the bottom with 1/4″ seam allowance.  Leaves the top open, clip any curves and turn it right side out.  Press it nice and flat with your iron; repeat with the second collar piece.

Next you are going to take one of your front bodice pieces (there should be four; two are for the lining)  Place one of your pic2collar pieces along the neckline.  One end of the collar should be about 1/2″ from the shoulder, and the other edge should be 1″ from the centre of your bodice. (The collar in my picture is a bit smaller than yours will be, I revised the pattern slightly after making the dress).  Take another one of your opposite front bodice pieces (the lining) and pin it on top, right sides together.  Your collar should be sandwiched in the middle.  Starting at the edge of the shoulder, sew down along your collar and the centre edge of the bodice with 1/2″ seam allowance. Repeat this step for the other side of your front bodice.

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Clip around any curves and turn your front bodice right side out.  Press nicely with your iron.  You should now have something like this:

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Are we ready to move on and attach the back of the bodice?  Good, let’s go.  Take one of your back bodice pieces and place it right side up.  Next lay your front bodice pieces on top, also right side facing up.  Make sure the arm holes and sides of the bodice are lined up with the back piece.  The centre pieces of the front bodice should over lap by about 3/4″, this will be where the buttons are added.  The collar edges should just be touching.

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Grab your second back bodice piece and pin it along the shoulders and the neckline of the other back bodice piece, right sides together.  Your front bodice should be sandwiched in between.  Sew along the shoulders and the neckline BE VERY CAREFUL not to sew in the edge of the collar.  Sew with 1/2″ seam, clip the curves, turn right side out and press.

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Time to work on the sleeves!  Take your two sleeve pieces to the iron.  Fold the long straight bottom edge over 1/4″ to the wrong side and press with your iron.  Next fold it over another 1/2″ and press again.

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pic8Sew a gathering stitch along the top of the sleeve, to do this set your machine at a high tension and the stitch length at 4.  Repeat with the second sleeve.  Take your bodice and open it; lay it flat with the front facing up.  Pin one of your sleeves along the armhole, right sides together.  Make sure that your gathered sleeve is the same length as the arm hole, if not adjust it by either pulling on the thread or loosening it slightly.  I like to start pinning by finding the centre of the sleeve and pinning that to the shoulder seam.

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Sew the sleeve to the bodice with a 1/2″ seam allowance.  Repeat these same steps to attach the other sleeve.

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This next step is probably the trickiest one.  I am going to use a picture from one of my previous tutorials because it illustrates it perfectly. Fold your bodice so that the front and back are facing each other and the lining is facing outwards.  Pin the bodice along the sides and pin the sleeves together along the bottom.  If you have done it correctly, the sleeves should be pinned right sides together, and wrong sides facing out.  Unfold the edge of the sleeve that you had previously ironed over.  Sew all the way up the side and up the sleeve with 1/2″ seam allowance.  Finish your seam with a zig-zag stitch to prevent fraying.

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Hopefully that wasn’t too confusing!  Repeat this step on the other side.  Now you are going to the “hem” on your sleeves.  Fold your sleeve back the way it was, sew around the top edge of the folded part to create a casing for your elastic.  Leave about 1″ open at the bottom of the sleeve to thread your elastic through.  Cut your 1/4″ elastic to 7 1/2″ long.  Thread it through the casing.  Sew the hole shut and repeat steps for the second sleeve.

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The last step to complete your bodice is to add the button holes and buttons to the front.  I used three buttons, it is up to you how many and what size buttons you would like to use.

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Let’s get that skirt put together, shall we?

Fold your skirt piece (12″x42″) in half width-wise, right sides together.  Sew down the long edge with 1/2″ seam, finish the seam with a zig-zag stitch.  Now we need to hem the skirt.  Fold up the bottom edge 1/4″ to the wrong side and press, fold again another 1/4″ and press again.  Sew down your hem.  We now need to mark on the skirt where the ruffle strips are going to go.  The first strip will be at the top of the skirt so you don’t need to measure that.  Measure 2 1/4″ down from the top of the skirt and make a mark with a pencil.  Make several marks around the skirt, all measuring 2 1/4″ from the top.  Next move down another 2 1/4″ from those marks and repeat, making marks around the skirt at this measurement.  Repeat this step two more times – you should have 4 sets of pencil markings 2 1/4″ apart.

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pic12Prepare your ruffle strips – you may have had to sew more than one piece of fabric to get your 60″ in length, that is fine.  Fold your ruffle strip in half so that the short ends are right side together.  Sew the ends together with 1/2″  seam.  Don’t worry about finishing these ends with a zig-zag stitch since they won’t be visible.  Now you have a large circle.  Fold up the bottom half of the circle so that the two raw edges are aligned and the right sides are facing out. Press your ruffle in half with your iron.   Sew the top raw edges of the ruffle together with a zig-zag stitch to prevent fraying.  Do this with all five of your ruffle strips.  Lastly you need to sew a gathering stitch around the top of your ruffle.  Sew it just below the zig-zag stitch.  With the heavier fabrics like the denim or cow print you will either need to be very careful when pulling the thread to gather it (it may break), or maybe use a heavier thread like an upholstery thread.

Let’s get those ruffles attached to the skirt.  So there are five ruffles, starting from the top of the skirt here is how I organized it: Ruffle 1: Denim, Ruffle 2: Cow, Ruffle 3: Yellow/Gold, Ruffle 4: Denim, Ruffle 5: Cow.

We are going to start at the bottom of the skirt with Ruffle 5: Cow.  Take one of your cow ruffles and make sure it is gathered to the same width as the skirt.  Line up the top edge of the ruffle with the bottom markings on your skirt and pin it all the way around.  Sew it into place along the top edge – that’s it, super easy!  Repeat this step with Ruffle 4: Denim, placing the top edge along the markings above Ruffle 5.  The bottom edge of  ruffle should cover the top edge of ruffle 5 so that you don’t see the stitching.  Repeat this step until all 5 layers are sewn into place.  Ruffle 1 will be sewn onto the top edge of the skirt.  See picture below.

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Sew a gathering stitch along the top edge of the skirt.  Now it is time to sew the skirt to the bodice.  Turn your skirt inside out.  Make sure that your bodice is right side out and that the buttons are done up.  Pin the top edge of the skirt to the bottom edge of the bodice, right sides together.  Make sure that your skirt is gathered to the same size as your bodice.  Also it looks much better if the seam of your skirt is at the back, centre, of the bodice.  Sew the skirt to the bodice with 1/2″ seam allowance.  Be careful to catch all the layers of the fabric; especially the denim so that none of the raw edges will show when you turn your dress right side out.  Almost done!  We just need to create the sash.  I apparently forgot to take pictures of this step but it’s very easy!

Take your piece of yellow satin fabric that is 4 1/2″ x 60″ (if you have had to sew more than one piece of fabric together to get this length, that is fine BUT make sure that your seam is not near the centre of the sash or else it will be visible).  With right sides together, sew the long edges of your sash with 1/4″ seam.  Turn right side out and press it flat with your iron.  Tuck the short open edges inside the sash and then sew it shut by top stitching along the edge.  Hand stitch the sash to the dress at each of the side seams of the bodice.  And that’s about it!  I did add some red sequins to the front of the sash as well, I’m not sure if I was happy with them but I will leave that up to you!

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  Now your sweet Jessie is ready to party!  I hope you have enjoyed this sewing tutorial, I would love to see your own Sweet Jessie creations!  Thank you for stopping by.

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Cruising With Mickey Chalkboard Countdown

4 Mar

I wanted to create some excitement for our children in the weeks leading up to our big Disney Vacation.  A friend of mine had made a Disney countdown for her children (which I will show you in a couple of days).  Her’s was awesome and had some great educational aspects to it, but I wanted mine to be more geared towards the cruise instead of a general Disney theme.

Here is what I came up with.

titleThis chalkboard paddle countdown was very easy to make, and maybe even a little educational (they got to practice writing their numbers).  I picked up all of the supplies very cheaply at Michael’s.  Supplies were:  Wooden paddle, chalkboard paint, sparkly alphabet stickers and Pirate Mickey scrapbook stickers, paint brush .  I also used a piece of paper, pencil, and scissors to make the template for the painted mickey head. Oh and don’t forget the chalk!

instructions

1. Here are all of the supplies that I used

2.  Draw a Mickey head on a piece of paper that will fit on your paddle. Cut it out and trace it onto the bottom of your paddle with a pencil.

3.  Carefully paint the outside of your Mickey head with the chalkboard paint and then fill the outline.  Wait until it fully dries before adding a second, and then third, coat of paint.

4. Decorate as you wish with stickers.  Stickers that are meant for scrapbooking will be a lot more durable than regular stickers.

And that’s it!  Now your children will have fun doing their countdown each day, and getting more and more excited about their trip!  On the morning that we left I put the countdown at the bottom of the stairs and had drawn a big zero on the countdown.  When the children came down the stairs they were thrilled to see that there were no more days left and it was time to go!

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So much fun!

Thank you for stopping by today!

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~The Sweet Audrey {A Vingtage Inspired Ombre Dress} ~ Part 3 (Finishing Touches)

24 Dec

 

 

titleimage     Part 3 is here, let’s put the finishing touches on the Sweet Audrey Dress!  Today we will sew the skirt to the bodice, add the buttons, and make the bow and attach it to the front of the dress.

First of all, we need to prep the bodice.  Take it to the ironing board and unfold it, lay itpart3pic1 flat.  You are going to fold the bottom of the liner over 1/2″ to the inside of the bodice and press it.  Next fold the bodice back up.  You need to pin the button plackets together in the back.  To make sure that it is lined up properly, make sure that the side seams are at the sides of the dress.  The arm holes should also look part3pic2like they are lined up too.  Put a few pins down the back of the button placket to make sure that the bodice doesn’t shift around while you are attaching the skirt.  Your button placket SHOULD overlap at the back.

We are now going to attempt to attach the skirt to the bodice.  This is the part that I like best, when it is sewn together you can really see how beautiful your dress is going to be!

Keep your bodice turned right side out.  Turn your skirt inside out.  You are going to pin the skirt to the outer part of your bodice, right sides together.  The easiest way to describe this is that you are going to sit your skirt (inside out!) on top of the counter/cutting table, whatever you are using for your workspace.  Now, with your bodice right side out, turn it upside down and place it inside of your skirt.  line up the sides of the bodice with the sides of your skirt.  If you followed along with part 2, your skirt should be the same width around as the bottom of your bodice.  Pin it together all the way around, you will pin the top edge of the skirt to the bottom edge of the OUTER part of your bodice (the satin part)part3pic3

Sew all the way around the edge using 1/2″ seam.  Make sure that you are sewing just underneath the gathering stitch that you used to sew the two skirts together.  If you do not sew below it, you will see the gathering stitch from the outside when the dress is done.  Make sure that when you are sewing over the back of the bodice that the button placket IS overlapping at the back.  Also be careful not to catch the liner when you are sewing.  Since we ironed it under before this step, it should be easy to ensure that this doesn’t happen.

Next take your dress to the ironing board.  part3pic4Press your seam up so that it will go inside the bodice.  Press the rest of your bodice nicely, make sure the liner looks nice and press it so that it covers the seam.  This part3pic5will enclose the seam inside of the dress.  When you are finished, top stitch along the bottom edge of the liner, all the way around.  When you get to the button placket, again top stitch right over it, it may take a bit of tricky maneuvering but it’s not too difficult.  The liner should now be stitched into place.  Make sure that your thread is the same colour as the satin, as this stitch will be visible from the outside of the dress.  After you have stitched the liner down, open up your button placket.  You will notice that the inner part of the liner did not get stitched into place.  You will need to hand stitch this part, I used a whipstitch to do this.

Now it’s time to add your buttons.  I used 4 5/8″ buttons for my dress.  Your button holes will be added to the part of the bodice that overlaps (is on top) of the other button fabric.  Your buttons will be sewn to the side that is underneath the other one.

Last but not least, let’s create a gorgeous bow for the front of the dress!  You will need to cut three pieces of fabric from your satin.  You will need two rectangles that are TWICE as long as you want the finished bow to be, and the width will be whatever you would like the finished bow to be PLUS 1/2″.  My two rectangles were 16″ x 4 1/2″.  Then you need a third rectangle for the centre piece of your bow.  Mine measured 4 1/2″ x 5 1/2″.  I am going to do most of the next step in pictures.  All of the seams for the bow have been sewn with 1/4″ seam allowance.

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Pin the two rectangular pieces for the main part of your bow right sides together. Sew around three sides leaving one short end open.

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Turn right side out, fold in the unsewn edge 1/2″ and press.

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Take your third rectangular piece for the centre of the bow. Fold over short ends 1/2″ to the wrong side and press

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(make sure that your seam is on the inside so that it won’t be visible)

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Now that the centre piece is finished, let’s move back to the main part of the bow. Grab a needle and thread, run a long gathering stitch down the centre. Make sure that the top edge and the bottom edge of the bow are gathered facing the same direction; towards you. The seam should be at the back of the bow.

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This dress is finished! Beautiful, elegant, fun ~ fit for a princess!  Here are the links to PART 1 and PART 2 in case you missed it.

Thank you for following along with this sewing tutorial, I would love to see any finished dresses that you have made!

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Thank you for stopping by!

~Lisa K

Day 13 ~ Boo-Boo Bunny

27 Nov

Hello!  Today I would like to introduce you to Boo-Boo Bunny (with a free pattern!).  He is a rice-filled hot/cold pack.  If your children are anything like mine they hurt themselves, a lot!  Especially my two year old, Sam.  He lives life hard and he has had more goose-eggs than I can count.  It seems, though, that whenever I come at them with a cold pack or some frozen peas, the crying gets worse; they don’t like it!  This is why I created Boo-Boo bunny.  He is friendly and cute,  the children don’t mind putting him on their wounds!  There are plenty of other uses for him too.  Heat him in the microwave (25-30 seconds in my microwave is perfect)  Stick him in winter boots in the morning to get them toasty warm, or even in their gloves!  He is the perfect size to fit in the crook of your back.  If you make a bigger one, the design of this bunny is ideal to drape around your neck.  Make a bunch of them, heat them up and stick them in your blankets at the foot of your bed, great feet warmers! (in case you can’t tell, I live somewhere really cold!)  Or for my 13 month old who refuses to wear gloves, I heat up bunny, and let her play with him in the car.  Plus they just love to play with him as a toy.  He is the right size to fit inside a Christmas stocking, and would make a wonderful gift for a child, or for an adult with aches and pains, or bad circulation.  So without further ado, I bring you Boo-Boo Bunny.

Supplies:

Click here for pattern: Boo-Boo Bunny

Scrap fabric (I used Riley Blake Small Chevron tone-on-tone in Aqua and Grey)

Small piece of double sided fusible interfacing

Scrap of felt in two colours; one for the face and one for the heart (I used yellow and hot pink)

Embroidery Floss

Rice (about 1 1/2 cups)

Sewing Machine and basic sewing supplies

All seams are sewn at 1/4″

First you will cut all of your pieces.  From your fabric you will need four arm pieces (2 opposites) 4 leg pieces (2 opposites) 4 ears (2 opposites), 2 body pieces.  You can use all of the same fabric, I chose to use two coordinating fabrics and have the appendages different from the body.  You will also need one face cut from felt, and the same size piece from your double sided fusible interfacing, and one felt heart, and also a heart from the double sided fusible interfacing.

Next you are going to take the piece of felt that you cut for your face, and some embroidery floss.  Embroider whatever kind of face you would like.  I used two strands of floss and did a back stitch for the nose and mouth part.  Then I used 3 strands and did a cross stitch for the eyes.

Take your face, heart,  your interfacing pieces, and one body piece to your ironing board.  Sandwich the fusible interfacing between your felt and the right side of the body piece, make sure they are positioned where you want them to go.  Press them into place.  Now zig-zag stitch around the face and the heart to keep them in place.  You could also use a more decorative stitch if you wish.  Here is a different one that I did:

We are now going to get all of the limbs sewn up!  Take two of your leg pieces.  Place them right sides together, sew all around the leg but leave the bottom, short straight edge open.  Repeat this step for all of the appendages (legs, arms, ears) then turn right side out and iron.  You are going to fill each one with rice, to about 1/2″ from the top.  Once you have done this, sew the top edge shut.  There should still be a little bit of space below your stitching with no rice in it~ if not you have filled it too full.  Do this step for all of the limbs.

Now we need to attach the limbs and sew the body together.  I am going to explain the steps and show you a series of pictures to make it easier.  The little x marks that I have put on the body pattern show you where to attach your limbs.  A good idea is to lay your front body piece (the one with the face and heart)  on top of that pattern.  Put one of your limbs (let’s say an ear) where you want it to go, and then flip it down so that the raw side is at the top of the bunny’s head.  It should stick out just slightly.  Now place the other body piece, right side facing down, and sandwich the ear inside.  Put a pin through all three layers.  Now flip that body piece up and place your next limb where it should go.  Use the same method and go all around the body, securing the limbs into place.

You should now have your body pieces pinned, right sides together, with all of the limbs enclosed inside.  Sew all around the body, leave a space about 2″ open so that you can turn it right side out.  I found that the best spot to leave open is between one of the arms and leg.  Remember to backstitch at the beginning and end so that your stitches don’t come undone when you are turning it right side out.  You should now have something that looks like this.  Turn your bunny right side out.  Fill his body with rice, I think I used about 1- 1 1/2 cups of rice to fill him up.

Use a ladder stitch to close up the hole ~ and he is all done!

Play around with your microwave times to see how long it takes to heat him up ~ you don’t want to overheat it.  I suggest starting with 20 seconds.  When I was doing this my husband said to me, “Be careful, you don’t know if the fabric is strong enough to survive the microwave.”  My response, “Honey, this is Riley Blake quilting cotton, I assure you there will not be a problem.” And he says (as if he knows) “Oh yeah, the Riley fabric.” PSSHH like he has any idea what I’m talking about!  Husbands are so cute.

I hope you have enjoyed this handmade gift idea, we are nearing the end but tomorrow I have a guest blogger that I am very excited about.  I have pinned so many of her amazing recipes ~ Christy from “The Girl Who Ate Everything”  So don’t forget to visit tomorrow to see what she has cooked up for us!

Thanks for stopping by,

~Lisa K

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