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Tag Archives: appliqué

Dress Up Time D.I.Y ~ Cinderella Peasant Dress

21 May

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Today I am going to share this simple Cinderella Peasant Dress costume {size 2T} with you.  I think little chores are much more fun when you are dressed like Cinderella!  Peasant dresses are very easy sewing projects, in fact I think that one of my very first sewing projects was a peasant dress.  When I first learned how to make one, I followed a great tutorial from Pretty Prudent.  This Cinderella dress is just a slight variation from this peasant dress.  Since most of the steps are the same, except for the skirt, I don’t want to re-write someone else’s tutorial.  Instead I will have you read their tutorial and tell you what I did differently.

Here are the supplies that you will need, for the dress only.  I will tell you about the apron after the dress is out of the way!

supplies

~Fabric: You will need three different colors, but it’s all plain cotton.  I found mine in the bargain bin, it does not have to be expensive!  Sleeves: Light/Sky Blue 1/4 yard, Bodice: Dark/Chocolate Brown 1/4 yard, Skirt: Light/Coffee Brown 1/2 yard.

~35″ of 1/4″ elastic.

~Thread and basic sewing supplies

Below are the measurements for the dress.  You will cut two of the bodice pieces on the fold.  Cut along the red lines to create an armhole (a basic J shape, 6″ down) and a sloping neckline.

You will also need to cut two of the skirt pieces, and two of the sleeves (on the fold).

Size 2T

Cinderella Peasant Measurements

Cut out all of your pattern pieces above.  You are going to make the bodice by following the instructions here: Long Sleeve Peasant Dress Tutorial.  Start from Step 2: Cut Out Neckline and Armhole.  To be clear, while you are following the peasant dress tutorial, you will be using the two bodice pieces and the two sleeve pieces to create the bodice.  You will not be doing anything with the skirt until you come back to this page.

DO NOT:  Hem the bottom of the dress (bodice) or insert elastic into the sleeves.

Creating The Skirt

You should now have your bodice made, with the finished sleeves attached.  The bodice should have a raw edge along the bottom.  Are we on the same step? Good, let’s create the skirt and finish the dress.  Take your two rectangular skirt pieces and sew them right sides together down both of the shorter sides with 1/2″ seam allowance.  Use a zig-zag stitch to finish the seam.  Press your seams flat.  Fold the bottom of your skirt over 1/4″ to the wrong side and press with your iron.  Fold it over again and press; hem the bottom of your skirt.  Sew a gathering stitch around the top of your skirt and make sure it is the same width around as the bottom of your bodice.

Attach Skirt to the Bodice

Pin the top of the skirt to the bottom of the bodice, right sides together.  The easiest way is to have your bodice turned right side out, and your skirt inside out.  Place your bodice upside down into the top of the skirt and pin around the top.  It is a good idea to tuck the sleeves out of the way so that they don’t get in the way of your sewing.  Sew the bodice and skirt together using a 3/4″ seam allowance.  Use a zig-zag stitch to finish off the edge of the seam.

Press the seam upwards (towards the bodice) with your iron.  Now you are going to stitch along the top of the seam, all the way around, to create an elastic casing (make sure you are using thread that matches the chocolate brown bodice).  Leave 2″ open so that you can insert your elastic.  Take 20″ of 1/4″ elastic and attach it to a safety pin.  Thread it through the casing.  Sew the ends of the elastic together and then sew the opening shut.

And that’s all!  I left the elastic out of the sleeves because I noticed that Cinderella’s sleeves are loose, but of course you could make yours any way you wish.

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I also made an apron with an applique to go along with the dress.  It was very time consuming, and it was my first attempt at creating something like this, but here is a quick look at how I did it.

First I found a clip-art picture online of one of the bird characters from Cinderella, here is what my applique was supposed to look like:

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I have to say that my little bird didn’t turn out quite so happy looking, rather a little worried looking!

Supplies used: various scraps of fabric, heat n bond, black thread, basic sewing supplies.

I printed the bird and cut it out around the outer edges.  I pinned it to some blue fabric that already had some heat n bond applied to the back of it.  I cut the bird shape out of the blue fabric (leave the back of the heat n  bond on, do not peel it off yet)

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Next I cut out pieces of the bird that were not blue (ie the hat, vest, beak, etc…) and pinned them to coordinating colors of fabric – these pieces of fabric also had heat n bond applied to the back.  I cut out each little piece of the bird and applied them to my blue main bird piece, like a puzzle.  Peeling off the back of the heat n bond I pressed each piece into place with my iron.  Here is the little bird coming together: pic5 pic6

After all of the pieces were in place I peeled off the backing on my main (blue) bird piece and positioned it where I wanted on the apron skirt.  Then, using black thread, I stitched all of the features and outlines onto the bird.  I used a zig-zag stitch, setting the length at almost zero.  The width of the stitch varied, as you can see that some of the lines on the bird are thicker than others – for example the black parts of the eyes are also done using a wide zig-zag stitch.

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apronIt can be pretty tricky to get the facial details just right, as I mentioned before, my bird seems to look a bit worried and the original picture the bird looked happy!  As for the Cinder-Calleigh lettering, I don’t have a fancy embroidery sewing machine so this is just done freehand, again with a zig-zag stitch on a very short stitch length setting.

Thanks for stopping by today, I hope you have enjoyed this post!

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How To Create A Sweet Applique Using Picmonkey

2 Apr

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Today I would like to show you how I use PicMonkey to create beautiful appliques for my personalized baby quilts and many other projects!  Why use PicMonkey?  If you are like me and live in the stone age with no fancy crafting tools like a Silhouette Cameo, this is a great option.  PicMonkey has a lot of simple shapes and great fonts and it’s easy to play around with the sizes and get your design exactly the way you want it.  Also I like this method because I can make sure that the letters are the perfect size to fit inside the design.  I’m sure there are many ways to create templates or designs for your applique, this is just how I like to do it!

What can you use this for?  There are so many things you could personalize, blankets, onesies, skirts, shirts, banners, bags or backpacks, framed art, I don’t know, take your pick!

Start by going to PicMonkey and click on “Edit A Photo”  Choose any photo, it doesn’t matter because we are going to put an overlay right on top of it.  Click on the overlay tab on the left side – it is the button that has the little shapes, fifth from the top.

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Click on the geometric overlay and select the rectangle, the first one.  Expand it to go over top of your picture and click on the white color to turn it into a blank canvas.

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Next, staying in the overlay section, click on the “labels” tab.  You can select whatever you like, the non-royale labels have the simplest lines which are best for applique designs.  Here is what I chose:

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Now you can add a word to your design, or whatever you like to your design.  Select the text button on the left side (the “P” button) As I mentioned, I use this particular applique design for a personalized baby quilt that I sell in my Etsy Shop.  Expand or turn your word to make it fit exactly the way you like in your design.  I would advise against using fonts that are too complicated (probably like the one that I have used) because they are more difficult to cut out.

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Save your design and print it.  When you print your applique template, you can usually select the size that you want it to print at that time.  Take some heat n bond and press it to the back side of a piece of fabric for your main (outer) shape.  Cut out your outer shape and pin it to the fabric and cut the shape out.

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Next cut your letters out of the design.  Again take the fabric that you are going to use for the letters and apply some heat n bond to the back of it.  When you apply the heat n bond first it makes it much easier to cut out your design, it’s more like cutting paper than fabric.  This let’s you get more detail and exact cuts.  Pin the letters to the fabric and cut out each one.  You will notice I cut the paper around the letters, then pinned it to the fabric and cut out the exact design.  This will give you more space to pin the letter to the fabric.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAPeel off the backing of the heat n bond and arrange the letters on your main design.  Press them in to place when they are exactly where you want them.  At this point you would stitch around the lettering with a tight zig-zag stitch.  I used a heat n bond ultra for my letters which doesn’t require stitching.  Next peel the backing off of your main applique piece and place it where you would like it to go on your quilt/shirt/onesie – whatever project you are decorating! Iron it in to place and use a tight zig zag stitch around the outer edge.

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I think it looks beautiful! What a great way to personalize your project.

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Here is a design that I am working on for another project, it is quite a bit more complicated.  I will let you know how it turns out!

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Thank you for stopping by, I hope you have enjoyed this little tutorial!

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{Simple} Pirate Mickey Felt Vest

8 Mar

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAPirate night on our Disney cruise was fantastic!  If you have missed out on my previous post: Cruise Review, we recently sailed on the Disney Fantasy for a 7 night Eastern Caribbean cruise.

Like I said, pirate night was fantastic!  Full of costumes, pirate games and activities, OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAlive pirate shows, fireworks, so much fun!  Some people really went above and beyond with their pirate costumes, both children and adults in full pirate gear.

Our costumes were fairly simple.  I made the boys and daddy some quick felt vests with Pirate Mickey Appliqued to the back. So here is a little tutorial on how I made them.

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supplies

-1 yard of felt (or more for adult sizes)

-scraps of felt in black, white, and red

-scraps of double sided fusible interfacing.

-basic sewing supplies

You will need to cut three pieces of felt for the main part of the vest. One for the back of the vest, and two for the front.   At Halloween I wrote a post about a werewolf vest, and it is exactly the same process.  Here is the link: Werewolf Vest  scroll down to the part where it says “and now on to the vest”.  You will use this to draft the pattern for your pirate vest.

Once you have those three pieces cut out, take the large piece for the back of your vest.  To make your applique you will first draw a pattern on paper.  The size of your pattern will depend on the size of the vest you are making.  I suggest drawing the “mickey” head on a piece of paper first.  I traced the bottom of a vase for his head and a coffee cup for his ears, this ended up being a great size for the vests that I was making.  You want to make sure that there is some room around the Mickey head for the bones to stick out, plus 1/2″ seam allowance for the sides of the vest.  Once you have a Mickey head that you are happy with, use it as a template to cut a Mickey head out of black felt.  Now you can sketch a bone.  Make it long enough that the one end can go underneath Mickey’s head about 1/2″.  You will need to cut out four of these in white felt.  Last but not least, you will cut a half circle for Mickey’s pirate bandana.  Make it about half the size as the main circle for Mickey’s head.  I used red felt for this.  You will also need to use your template and for each piece of felt cut a piece of fusible interfacing (eg. one mickey head, four bones, one bandana)

Now you are ready to put it together.  Take the back piece of your vest and all of your felt and interfacing to the ironing board.  Place the Mickey head in the center of your vest piece (do not fuse it yet!)  Take each of the four bone pieces and their corresponding piece of interfacing.  Place the bones on top of the vest (with the interfacing sandwiched underneath) with the edge of each bone just underneath Mickey’s head.  Then lift up Mickey’s head and fuse the bones into place with your iron.

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Next place your Mickey head back on the vest with your interfacing in between and press it into place.  Lastly, put your bandana on.  I put mine with the top of the bandana slightly covering the bottom of Mickey’s ears.  Place the interfacing under the bandana and iron it to the vest.

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To fully secure your applique into place, it is a good idea to sew around all of the edges with a tight zig-zag stitch.  Last but not least, you need to sew your vest together.  Take the left side of the front of your vest.  Pin it to the back of the vest, right sides together (so you are pinning it TO the side with the applique) and sew with 1/2″ seam allowance along the shoulder and the side of the vest.  Repeat this step with the right side.  Turn your vest right side out and you are ready to do your pirate jig!!

Thanks for stopping by!

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Day 7~ Upcycled Festive Turtleneck

21 Nov

Onto day 7 ~ almost halfway through this series.  I really hope you are finding some great Christmas gift ideas!  Today I wanted to show you something really easy to make for little girls, and there is also an easy boy project at the end (because there are never enough of those!).

Today’s ad sponsor is My Childhood Treasures.  They sell some beautiful children’s pdf sewing patterns.  If you have had a good look around my blog, you may have seen my “Sweet Little Red” post.  Sweet Little Red’s hooded cape was made using “The Maisie” pattern from My Childhood Treasures ~ so I can tell you from experience that her patterns arrive quickly, are easy to follow, and look beautiful when finished (My Childhood Treasures is also going to be participating in our Giveaway on November 30th!!) Click on the banner below to visit My Childhood Treasures on Etsy!

Every year I scour the department stores to try and find coordinating outfits so that my children will match in our Christmas pictures.  I am not sure why I didn’t think of this idea before now.  This year I got them plain white turtlenecks, and I am using matching fabric to make them fancier and add some accessories.  So much easier ~ and very inexpensive!  I also thought that this idea would make a great little gift for a girl.  You can make the turtleneck into a ruffly shirt, or a double layer dress.  I will show you how to do both of those, plus I have a really easy no-sew applique Christmas onesie idea for boys at the end of this post.

Supplies

Plain turtleneck – you can pick these up cheap at Wal-Mart or the one I got was from Superstore (I liked that the sleeves were a little puffy, gives it a girly touch!)

Scrap fabric for applique

One fat quarter of Christmas-y fabric

Stitch Witchery (double sided fusible interfacing) or heat n bond.

Fun embellishments (I had some green sparkly elasticized sequins, and somesilver ribbon elastic ribbon)

Sewing machine and basic sewing supplies

First we are going to start with the Christmas ornament applique.  I traced around the bottom of a large coffee mug onto a piece of paper to make sure I had a nice round shape.  Then I pinned the circle to some nice red satin fabric and cut out the circle.  I also cut out the same size circle from my double sided fusible interfacing (or heat n bond).  I also cut out a little trapezoid shaped piece out of grey chevron fabric for the top of the ornament, and again I cut out the same size piece from my fusible interfacing.

Next I decorated my piece of red satin, I used some fabri-tac to adhere my green sequins.  I then stitched them down.  You could really decorate your ornament however you like, ric-rac, beads, anything nice and sparkly!  Next I cut a piece of the silver elastic, about 4 inches long.  I folded it in half and glued it to the back of the fabric piece that was going to be used for the top of the ornament.

Then take both of these ornament pieces and your turtleneck to the ironing board.  First you are going to fuse the round ornament piece to your shirt.  Use either your round fusible interfacing or your heat n bond to do this.  Decide where to place your ornament before fusing, it’s kind of hard to change your mind later!!  Next position the top piece of your ornament where you would like it to go and fuse that into place.  Now that you have your ornament in place, you need to go back to your sewing machine.  Use a tight zig-zag stitch to stitch around the ornament, make sure you go all the way around your circle, and around all four sides of the top ornament piece.

Doesn’t it look so pretty and festive?

The only thing left to do is add a ruffle at the bottom.  Measure the bottom of your shirt, cut a strip of fabric that is 2 1/2″ wide and 4 times the width of your shirt.  My fabric was 42″ long, so I just used the width of the fabric, but if you are using a fat quarter you may have to sew two strips together.

Sew a zig-zag stitch down both of the long sides of your fabric strip.  Next, fold the strip in half lengthwise, with right sides together.  Sew the ends of the strip together with a 1/2″ seam allowance; zig-zag stitch down the edge of your seam.

 Now take this strip to the ironing board and press your seam flat.  Fold over one of your zig-zagged edges 1/2″ to the wrong side and press with your iron.

 You are now going to sew that folded edge into place. Sew all the way around the strip to secure the folded edge down.  Now you need to sew a gathering stitch around the other edge ~ the edge that ONLY has the zig-zag stitch, not the side that you just folded over!  Sew your gathering stitch and make sure that the width is now the same as the width of the bottom of your turtlenec.   Take your piece of fabric and pin the gathered edge to the turtle neck.  You are going to pin it 1/2″ from the bottom of the turtleneck, right sides together.   Sew it into place, I like to stitch it just below the gathering stitch.  Trim all of your threads and press your ruffle down with your iron, and it is done!

I want to also show you the dress version that I did for my daughter.  I used two coordinating Christmas fabrics.  Instead of making the ruffle strip 2 1/2″ wide, I made two strips that were both 8″ wide (you would just need to measure how long you want the dress to be and adjust your width accordingly).  The first fabric strip I sewed it 1 1/2″ from the bottom of the turtleneck, and the second fabric strip was sewn 1/2″ from the bottom ~ instant two-tiered turtleneck dress!

Man it’s hard to catch good pictures of this girl!!

The last idea is super simple, does not even require a sewing machine!  Get some scrap fabric, heat n bond ULTRA, a Christmas cookie cutter, a marker, and a onesie.

Iron your scrap fabric onto a piece of Heat N Bond ULTRA.  Flip your fabric piece over, place the cookie cutter onto the heat n bond side and trace around the outside with your marker.  Cut out your design and then peel off your applique backing.  Press it to the onesie with your iron – if you use heat n bond ultra, you do not have to sew it to the onesie!

That’s it! What a cute baby gift!  Here are all three, I hope you have enjoyed this post!

Thank you again!

~Lisa K

Sweet Dolly Hugs ~Fabric Tote Bag

25 Oct

Once in a while I see a sewing project or tutorial that immediately inspires me, makes me say “I need to buy THAT fabric and make THAT right now!”  I am sure this is exactly the reason that fabric designers post these sorts of things, and hire their wonderful and inspirational design teams.  This is what happened about nine weeks ago when I saw a post by The Cottage Mama for Riley Blake Designs.  The post was called “The Lolly Dolly Pillow”  I loved everything about this pillow; the colors, the fabric, the ric-rac, and of course, the dolly that was joyously affixed to the front.  Straight away I went to Etsy to find a great bargain on this fabric line.  It is called Dress-Up Days, it was designed by Shari Butler of Doohikey Designs for Riley Blake.  The doll panel comes in a few different colors; grape, aqua and orange, and blue.  The grape was my favorite, although the aqua and orange was a close second.  I bought my fabric from Raspberry Creek Fabric.  They had the doll panel plus they also had a fat quarter bundle with seven of the dress up days prints for a really great price, perfect!

I knew exactly who I was going to make this project for.  A good friend of mine has a really sweet little girl who loves her dollies.  I really like watching her play, she is a kind and good-natured girl ~ she takes on the little mommy role perfectly. Plus her birthday was coming up quickly! Before my fabric arrived I started thinking about my sewing project.  Although I loved the pillow, I felt like a pillow on it’s own might not be the right gift.  For one thing, I would probably need to make a little quilt to go with it and I just had too many things on my plate for a quilting project.  For another thing, while I loved the fabric, it may not go with the decor in her room.  So I came up with this idea – a fabric tote bag that she could store all of her dollies and doll clothes in.  Or whatever she wanted to put in it!  The tote bag has cotton batting in between the outer and lining layer of fabric, so it’s really plush and huggable.  It has some little handles so that she can tow it wherever she likes.  The back panel looks like the front, but instead of a doll I appliqued her initial onto the white fabric.  Plus who can resist an adorable doll hanging off of the front!

There are a TON of tutorials and websites with great instruction on how to make tote bags out there, so this is hardly an original idea.  I will let you know how I made this one though, just in case you want to make one for your very own sweet little dolly!

Supplies

~5 assorted fat quarters (I used dress up days jacks in green, grape damask, solid purple, grape chevron, and grape floral)

~Dress up days doll panel

~One yard white muslin (or thicker fabric)

~Thread (mine was purple)

~ Scrap fusible interfacing and heat n bond ultra

~ Sewing machine

~ 1 yard cotton batting

~Scissors

First you are going to make your front and back panel.  I kept all of the fabric the same as the Lolly Dolly Pillow, but when I realized how big my finished bag was going to be, I decided to make it a bit smaller.  You can’t make it too much smaller though because the Doll will be too big!  Here are the sizes of my fabric pieces for the front panel: Chevron ~ cut two pieces 18.5″ long x 6″ wide White: cut one piece 11″ long x 8.5″ wide.  Grape Damask: cut two pieces 5″ long x 8.5″ wide.  Now go to the Cottage Mama’s tutorial and use her instructions to put together the pieces for the front panel.  Do everything all the way up to and including attaching the doll to the panel; stop when you get to the part about the ruffle, and come back!  Here it is again: The Lolly Dolly Pillow.

If you used the same measurements as I did, your finished front panel should be 18.5″ long by 11.5″ wide.  Now we have to create a back panel.  The easiest way is to cut the same pieces as you did for the front panel.  Since I had only one fat quarter of each print, I had to cut different sizes.  As long as the finished product is the same size as the front panel,(18.5″x11.5″) it will be fine.   Assemble the back panel just like you did with the front.   Instead of a doll on the back, you can personalize the piece of white fabric by adding an applique.  To do this I first iron a scrap of fabric to some heavy duty heat n bond.  Then I like to find a nice simple font on my computer, blow it up to the size that you like.  Before you cut out the letter, pin it to the fabric.  I find if you are cutting through paper it makes the fabric easier to cut.

Pin the letter to the fabric, cut it out.

Peel off the back of the heat n bond and position it in the middle of the white fabric.  Press it into place with your iron.  I used a no-stitch heat n bond ultra so that the fabric won’t fray.  If you are using regular heat n bond you should finish your applique by doing a nice tight zig-zag stitch around the design.

Next we need to cut some fabric for the side panels and the bottom of the bag.  For the sides I used a fat quarter of jacks in green.  Cut two pieces of jacks in green that are 18.5″ long and 10.5″ wide.  For the bottom of my tote bag I used solid purple.  Cut one piece of solid purple 18.5″ x 11.5″ for the bottom.

Now we need to assemble the pieces.  Take your back panel and place it right side up.  Grab your bottom piece and line up one of the longer edges with the bottom of your back panel.  The bottom panel will be a little bit longer, (this is so that your side panels will have room to be sewn on) just make sure your back panel is centered on it.Pin it into place and sew it together with a 1/2″ seam. Repeat this step with your front panel on the opposite side of the bottom, and your side panels on each side.  Once they are all into place, iron your seams.  Here are some pictures of these steps:

For the liner of your tote bag, cut 5 pieces from your white muslin that are the same size as your front pieces.  For example: 2 pieces 18.5″ x 11.5″, 2 pieces 18.5″ x 10.5 inches, and one piece for the bottom, 18.5 x 11.5.  Assemble them exactly the way we just did for the outer shell.

Next lay out a large piece of cotton batting on the floor.  Put the outer pieces of your bag over top and cut around, so that you have a piece of cotton batting the exact same shape.  We are going to sew up the sides of the bag now.  Put the piece of cotton batting on the wrong side of your outer layer.  With the outer layer right side up, line up the long side of the front panel, with the long side of the side panel directly beside it.  Pin them together (right sides together)  repeat this step with each of the other long sides.  Now sew down each of the pinned sides with a 1/2″ seam allowance, make sure to catch the cotton batting into the stitches as well.  Repeat this with the lining as well.  You should now have to “bag” shape pieces that are inside out.

Let’s make the handles.  You need two strips of fabric for the handles.  Mine were 3″ wide by 22″ long.  If I were making it again I would make them at least two inches wider.  Interface the wrong side of the fabric strips.  Now with the wrong interfaced side facing up,  fold over each long side 1/4″ and press.  Then fold over in half (wrong sides together, right side facing out) and press again.  Sew down each long side of the strip.

Last but not least ~ it’s time to assemble the bag!  Make sure the outer layer of your bag is inside out.  Pin your handles onto the inside of the sides of the bag.  The raw ends of the handles should be facing out the top.   I pinned mine two inches from the corner of the bag.    Turn the inner layer right side out.  Put it inside the outer layer.  Now the right sides should be together, are you with me?  Pin the bag together around the top, make sure all of the corners line up.  Sew all the way around the top, make sure you catch the handles in your stitching BUT leave about a 5″ gap open.  With this open space, turn the bag right side out.  Now use your iron to press everything nicely, turn in the fabric in the space that is still open.  Last but not least, top stitch all the way around the top of the bag, closing the open hole.  You are done!!!  What do you think?

I hope you enjoyed this post, thanks for stopping by!

~Lisa K

Sweet Cupcake Ruffled Apron ~ Tutorial and Giveaway

13 Sep

I love making costumes for dress up and play time! You can be so creative and add all kinds of fun details that you wouldn’t normally do with regular clothing.

The design for this mini apron was originally one that I made to compliment a dress for my daughter’s first birthday. I also made one to go along with a Little Red Riding costume. I think it would be really sweet on it’s own for dramatic kitchen and cooking play, or maybe for a tea party. I am going to show you how to make one for your sweet mini chef.

I would rate this a beginner’s sewing project, it’s fairly basic and easy. Here are the supplies you will need:
For the apron-
1/2 meter of heavier cotton for the apron and the tie

1 strip of contrasting fabric for the ruffle (2 inches wide and the length will depend on the size of your apron, but approximately 30 inches)

thread

For the applique-

Scraps of fabric

Various notions (like ric rac, buttons, beads, etc…)

Fabri-Tac or other fabric glue

Wonder under or Heat n bond

thread

Instructions:

First of all you need to decide how big you want your apron to be. My apron was designed to go on a dress that I had made for my daughter. I laid out the dress and grabbed a piece of paper from the computer. I put the piece of paper on top of it, roughly where I wanted the apron to sit. Then I folded the piece of paper in half and drew a curved line like this:

You will want to make the pattern about 1/2 inch wider than you want the finished apron to be, to allow for a seam.
Also in regards to the size, you need to keep in mind that the ruffle will add an inch around the outside as well.

Cut along your curved line and then unfold the paper to make sure you are happy with the shape. Pin to your main apron fabric and cut two of these; one front and one back piece.

Next you are going to cut a strip of material in the contrasting fabric for your ruffle. The strip will be two inches wide. To figure out the length, take your measuring tape and measure around the sides and bottom of the fabric piece that you cut for your apron. You will want the ruffle strip to be approximately twice this length. My ruffle was 44 inches long.

The last piece of fabric you need to cut is for the apron tie. Cut this in the same material that you used for the front and back of your apron. I used a nice white heavier Kona cotton. The strip will be 4 inches wide. It is up to you how long you want this strip to be. It needs to be long enough to go around your child’s waist and tie in a bow at the back. Mine was 45 inches long. To give you an idea, this was long enough to tie and make a pretty bow around my 11 month old’s waist, and it was still big enough to tie a little bow around my 4 year old’s waist.

Now you should have four pieces of fabric: the front and back piece for the apron,

the ruffle strip, and the strip for the apron tie. Does it look like this? Yes? Good!

Now let’s work on the applique!

The design I chose for my applique was a simple cupcake design that I drew myself. When you are designing your own applique, remember to make the lines fairly simple. If you don’t want to design your own, here is a website with some great patterns: http://www.freeapplique.com/

First of all I drew my design in pencil on a piece of paper. When I was happy with the look, I went over the lines in black marker. Next I cut out the design. You have to cut along each line that you draw because you will be using separate pieces of fabric for each piece of the applique. Pin the pattern to your scrap fabric and cut out your design. You will also need to cut pieces of wonder under or heat n bond in the shape of your design as well. Does that make sense? Here are some pictures to help:Draw your design in black markerCut out your design along each drawn line Pin your design to your fabric and the heat n bond. Cut out the pieces for your applique.

Next you are going to take all of the pieces for your applique to the ironing board. Place the fabric, right side up, on top of the heat n bond. Make sure the heat n bond is bumpy side up (there should be a bunch of little bumps on one side of it) Take your iron and press down on top of the design. The fabric should now be stuck to the heat n bond. Now take one of the pieces of fabric for your apron. Peel off the back of the heat n bond and place your design on the apron where you want it to go. Play around with it a bit and make sure you like the placement; once you iron it on you won’t be able to move it again. Be careful that your design isn’t too close to the edge of your apron (you will be sewing 1/2 inch in from the edge). When you are happy with the spot you have chosen, press the iron on top of your design to adhere it to the fabric.

Now we are going to sew around the edge of the design with a tight little zig-zag stitch to prevent any fraying. Play around with the settings on your sewing machine and some scrap fabric to see what you like. For the base of the cupcake I am going to stitch around with my stitch length at .3 and my stitch width at 1.5. For the top of the
cupcake I am going to use a wider stitch, to make it look kind of like fluffy icing (for this I left the stitch length at .3 but turned the width to 3.0). If you have an open-toed presser foot, this is a great project to use it on. It will help you see the corners and turns much easier. Not sure which presser foot I mean? It looks like this: Okay so if you have been following along you should now have a piece of fabric with a cupcake on it. Let’s add some glitz and fun to it. For my apron I cut a piece of red ric rac and used my fabri tac glue to stick it on to the base of the cupcake. Then I took a red flowery button and sewed it to the top of the cupcake, maybe to look like a cherry or a candy on top. Get as creative as you want. You could get some long beads and sew them to the top of the cupcake for sprinkles, decorate it any way you like! Here is my finished cupcake:

The applique part is done, let’s get this apron put together. Take your ruffle strip, fold it in half right sides facing out, and press with your iron. Now you need to sew a gathering stitch. There are a few ways to do this, I like to crank up the tension on my sewing machine and put my stitch length to 4. Sew your gathering stitch down the side with the raw edges. Once you have done this, you need to make sure that the ruffle is now about the same length as the outer curved edge of your apron. If it still needs to be a bit smaller, pull the thread to gather it a bit more. You also want to make sure that your ruffle isn’t super gathered in one area and not as much in other areas, it will look funny. Sandwich your ruffle in between your front and back apron pieces. Arrange it so that your apron pieces are right sides together, and that the raw edge of your ruffle strip is facing the edge of the apron.

It should look like this:

Next you need to sew around the curved edge (do not sew the top straight edge!) of the apron. Sew a 1/2 inch seam, make sure you don’t sew too close to the edge of the apron or you may not catch all of the pieces of fabric. When you are done sewing, clip the threads to make it all neat. Now turn it right side out. At this point you should check that the ruffle is all sewn in properly and that none of the raw edges are poking out. If they are, turn it back to inside out and sew another line just on the inside of the line that you already sewed, to catch the ruffle that you missed. It is very important to check it at this stage, because after the next step you will not be able to fix it.

We are on the home stretch! Take the long strip for your apron tie. Fold the short ends in about a 1/4 inch and iron down. Now fold the strip in half lengthwise and iron. Then open it up and fold each side in half to the middle and iron down, fold the strip back in half and iron again. You should be left with a long strip about one inch wide. If you have ever made your own bias tape, this is basically the same thing. Here are some pictures, hopefully these instructions are clear!


Fold your apron tie in half to find the middle; mark it with a straight pin. Then find the middle of your apron using the same method. Open the apron tie and insert the top of the apron into it, making sure the middle of each are lined up. Sandwich the top of your apron into the tie, and put in a few pins to keep it in place. Now you are going to sew a top stitch to close up all of the open ends on your apron tie.

Start at one of the short ends. Then sew all the way down the apron tie, over top of the apron, securing the top of the apron inside the tie. Continue on to the other end and, hey, you’re done. Here is a little diagram to show you where to sew.

I hope your little chef enjoys her play apron. Here are a couple of other ones that I made.

This one was made for my daughter’s first birthday. I used the same cupcake design but added a one to my applique. You can use different computer programs to find a font that you like. Print your creation and use it as a template.

I made this apron for a “Little Red Riding Hood” costume. You may notice that the letters haven’t been sewn down. The difference is that I used a heavy duty Heat n bond instead of the regular one. I didn’t want the detail of the font to be lost in the sewing. The heavier heat n bond should prevent any fraying.

And now for the giveaway!!

Hopefully my tutorial was easy enough to follow, but just in case you don’t have time to make your own, I would like to give away the cupcake apron that I made. All you have to do to enter is leave a comment on this blog before SUNDAY SEPTEMBER 16th AT 9:00PM MOUNTAIN STANDARD TIME.{Giveaway now closed}Thank you for stopping by!

~Lisa. K

Here is my little girl having tea time with her apron

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